Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Talking Tuesday: Max Fisher and Chicken Little

We historians are a pessimistic lot, I think.  It is hard to study history and not see the great capacity humans have for hurting each other.  And while history doesn't repeat itself, it does often rhyme, to quote the phrase.  Max Fisher writes a terrifying article in Vox.com about the very real possibility of World War III with Russia.  It is more likely than I thought possible.  It is true that very often, the first 20-30 years of a new century are fraught with unrest, war, change, and revolution.  Our own time is quite ripe for a major upheaval.  We've lived in comfortable times for a long time now, and perhaps we've forgotten what it is to be really afraid and insecure in our daily lives.  


We've also lived with the averted spectacle of nuclear war for so many years that I think many of us have forgotten the lessons of Hiroshima and Nagasaki.  



Fisher:

"Europe today looks disturbingly similar to the Europe of just over 100 years ago, on the eve of World War I. It is a tangle of military commitments and defense pledges, some of them unclear and thus easier to trigger. Its leaders have given vague signals for what would and would not lead to war. Its political tensions have become military buildups. Its nations are teetering on an unstable balance of power, barely held together by a Cold War–era alliance that no longer quite applies.

If you take a walk around Washington or a Western European capital today, there is no feeling of looming catastrophe. The threats are too complex, with many moving pieces and overlapping layers of risk adding up to a larger danger that is less obvious. People can be forgiven for not seeing the cloud hanging over them, for feeling that all is well — even as in Eastern Europe they are digging in for war. But this complacency is itself part of the problem, making the threat more difficult to foresee, to manage, or, potentially, to avert."



I'll admit it, I'm afraid.  Afraid for my family, for my children, afraid for the world we may all have to inhabit if Russia pulls the nuclear trigger.  100 years ago, the Great War brought down the entire political system of Europe--almost all the monarchies crumbled, ways of life were obliterated, catastrophic loss of life on all sides of the conflict, and a whole generation of young men killed or maimed in body and soul.  The Treaty of Versailles set the conditions for the conflicts of the 30 years that followed.  


I understand very well why Russians feel so paranoid--we in the West have a short collective memory; it is hard for us to live into the reality of the Eastern mind that remembers everything in present tense.  Russia spent most of its long history fending off invaders, and has a long collective memory of occupation and armed conflict on its borders.  There are no natural barriers to prevent invasion from the West (the Urals are the first major geographical boundary, and they are quite far into Russian territory), and in the last 500 years, Russia saw Western invasions from Poland, Ukraine, France, and Germany.  The Eastern side saw repeated invasion and brutal occupation by the Mongols.  My interpretation of the current situation is that the belligerence isn't so much aggression as it is basic fear of invasion.  The chest thumping that Putin engages in is a show for the people, a way of saying that he, Putin, will protect the people when the invasion comes.  It may not correspond with the political or military reality on either side of the issue, but these things are not always rational or logical.  But then, that is how war is made.  And sometimes, the sky really is falling.


(Fisher's article is fairly long, but Rod Dreher has a nice excerpt on his blog today)

Pray for the peace of the world.


Monday, June 29, 2015

Cool as a Cuke


This was another impulse fabric buy when I was visiting my parents.  I went into Joann Fabrics to look for some notions, and of course, the fabric is right by the front door, and you have to pass through it to get to the rest of the (admittedly tiny) store, so of course, I just had to have a little keek.  I wasn't really intending to buy anything. 

Famous last words.  

I ended up buying several colors of a linen-rayon blend for some fall projects, as well as this 100% cotton (!!!) seersucker.  While I like the Kaufman seersucker that I used on the McCall's 8272, it does have some polyester in it, and isn't quite as breathable as 100% cotton.  This seersucker has a looser weave to it, and the stripes are a smidge wider (the Kaufman stripes are very narrow), but it behaved very well during sewing.  


My main complaint is that I lost nearly 1/2 a yard in the pre-washing process, and I'm pretty sure the gal who was cutting shorted me a bit of yardage.  She goofed on one of the other lengths (and I caught it before I checked out) so it wouldn't surprise me if this was short a bit to start with.  It meant I barely squeaked out my dress--I had nothing left over for a belt, and barely had enough at the end to make the bias strips for the sleeve edges.  


I cut this all in one with inseam pockets as separate pieces, and I'm pretty pleased with it.  When I first tried it on, I panicked a little.  It felt too loose, too voluminous, too 80s.  At best, I figured I'd made a nice nightgown.  It just seemed too big in all kinds of weird places.  I do think that was more to do with the belt I tried first (it was a bit narrower than this one, and the fabric bunched strangely around it), and also the fact that I was having a bad belly day. (I dropped 3 pounds in 24 hours over the weekend, so it looks better today).


I'm ridiculously pleased that I've finally figured out inseam pockets!  This was probably my best try to date.  I did think at first that they were a mess, but now that the dress is hanging properly, they seem fine.  I do have a bit of excess fabric in the back, but it is okay, I think.  I wasn't going for super fitted.


Construction details:  I made this almost exactly the same as the Butterick 3819 (incidentally, I gave that dress away to my friend this week, as I decided it really doesn't suit my coloring, and I knew it would suit hers beautifully.  We are similarly proportioned, so I figured it would fit her well and it does!)  I was able to skip the zip all together since the fit is so loose; aside from having to zig-zag all the edges in addition to pinking, the machine sewing went pretty quickly.  I did self-bias strips for the sleeve facings, which I thought was a nice little contrast to break up the vertical stripes.  I did wish I'd had enough to do the neckline and hem, but will probably try this on the next iteration!  (I have some blue seersucker coming in the post)  I hand finished all the facings and edges on the inside to give it a clean uniform look.


I think I might pick up another 1/2 yard when I'm in a store next, because I think it would be fun to make a matching obi belt to go with this dress.  I noticed eshakti had one on a similarly styled dress and really liked the look of it (it must have been popular because I can't find it now to link to!)
In the meantime, I'm going to enjoy wearing a nice cool dress that is pretty unstructured (and look into expanding my pendant collection).  I think I could even go for a faux-lagenlook style with this dress if I skipped the belt and added leggings or slim capris or something underneath.  I'm sort of curious to try it out.

Details:
Cucumber dress: Butterick 3918 hack from frankenpattern using 100% cotton seersucker in lime green from Joann.com
Leather belt: etsy
Cuckoo clock necklace: Weeping Grove (etsy)
Softspots shoes: via ebay
Earrings: gift

Sunday, June 28, 2015

~wiws~ polka dot madness


Hot off my sewing machine: another closet staple.  I bought this fabric at Hobby Lobby when I was visiting my parents last week--it was a total impulse buy, as I'd gone in to look at buttons, but you know, you have to go through the fabric section to get to the buttons, so....  What can I say?  Michael Miller knows what he's on about.  I nearly bought the coordinating fabric because I loved Roisin's dress with it, but I'm really trying to avoid novelty prints right now, because I know that I don't wear them as much.  So I bought this spotty fabric in the same colors instead.  


I cut it on Thursday while a friend was visiting for the day, sewed it on Friday while the girls were playing, and wore it to church this morning!  I did make a soft sash to wear with it, but decided I wanted a little more tailored look today.  


I don't even know what to call this dress, because it is so basic.  It was hard to photograph because at a distance it reads kind of purple (I didn't realize this until I was taking the pictures), but it is actually a lovely bright navy with vivid orange polka dots.  I want to try it with a bright orange belt just for contrast.  In the meantime, this narrow navy leather belt worked great.  


I think a brown leather belt will also look nice.  I also like that this dress can be transitional with a contrast cardigan--I think my kelly green cardigan would actually look splendid.  I sort of wish I still had my orange cardigan from Land's End canvas.  I guess I'll just have to keep my eyes open for something orange in the thrift stores.


One of the things that is fun about making your own clothing is the ability to add interesting little finishing details.  


I used an orange side zip, just because I could, and also used bright orange bias tape to finish the edges.  It just peeks out the edges and is a fun touch.  


I do like the fit of this dress, although I think I need to start taking out the extra ease I've built into the back bodice on future iterations.  (Although, I do like the ease of movement, so perhaps I'm overthinking it)  


I don't want something super fitted, but I also don't want it looking too big.  It is a fine line (I may have crossed it yesterday when working with some seersucker...the jury is still out on that one)  I cut it pretty much the same as the Mesa and Back to Basics Chambray dresses; I just made the square neckline a bit wider, which I think helps with some of the fit issues I'm having at the upper part of the bodice.


I top stitched the pockets again and I really like this detail--I plan to do it on all my yoked pockets now, as it really helps them to lie flat and I like the extra detail.


What happens when you can't decide where to put your hands while the timer is flashing:


Outfit details:

Polka Dot Madness dress: Michael Miller fabric (from Hobby Lobby), bias tape and zipper from stash, basic frankenpattern
Leather belt: target (ages ago)
Dansko lace up sandals: via ebay
Earrings: gift
Orange polka dot headscarf: etsy (I think--I've had it a while)

Linking with FLAP, like we do.


Thursday, June 25, 2015

Art Deco Button Blouse


I'm constantly surprised by what I find in 1930s fashion--some of it looks incredibly modern, and without a date on some photos, I would be hard pressed to date them to the mid-1930s.  Case in point: Witness2Fashion's post from today: One Suit with Many Blouses.  


I recently made a Portrait blouse and I played around a lot with the fit and style, ending up with something that was quite different from my usual semi-fitted silhouette.  With its asymmetric hem, slightly boxy fit, and color scheme, it read a little more 1960s than 1930s to me initially, but after seeing the photos from the blog post, I'm revising my opinion! 


I do think this blouse will look better with a slimmer cut skirt, or even slim clam diggers, but I'm sort of gratified to learn that my instincts about this blouse were correct for the period, even if I didn't have a specific example when I made it!


On to the blouse.  I found the fabric on ebay a few weeks ago.  It was kind of a random find, and only included 2 scant yards, so I knew it would have to be a blouse.  Given the body issues I'm having lately, I wanted to make something I could wear tucked or untucked.  


I also thought that the geometric design of the print lent itself well to an asymmetric closure.  I  received these four rectangular buttons from the 1940s as a gift with purchase from an etsy seller last summer.  I've struggled to find the right project for them, and this seemed to be the winner!  


I did cut a facing, but ended up finishing the edges with bias tape and hand finishing the insides once I decided on the diagonal closure.  I realized I could get it on and off without working buttonholes, so I just tacked down the corners and sewed the buttons straight on.  It was a really fast and easy project, something I really craved the week I made it.


The fabric is a nice light weight, so it was good for the warm summer day we had today (I did a bunch of baby wearing outside this morning, and it held up like a champ)


I also fixed the issue with the sleeves that I made on the other blouses I made this spring, so the sleeve opening is much more generous.  I ended up overlaying the bodice pattern from my dress sloper to get the sleeve opening right.  It was a little clunky but worked out in the end.  I also graded out the hips slightly to give a bit more wearing ease.  I probably didn't need to, as my original grading still fits fine, but I really wanted a blouse I could wear on a bad belly day; on those days, maternity wear is sometimes best.  This blouse definitely has enough ease!


I think it will also work well with my white linen skirt, particularly as it is a slightly slimmer fit than this green skirt (which was a perfect color match!  I love it when things like that work out).

Details:
Art Deco Button Blouse: vintage fabric via ebay, Portrait blouse pattern base, modified with dress bodice sloper and some flying by the seat of my pants. :)  Buttons via etsy
Cotton-linen skirt: Hollyburn, me made earlier this spring.  Kaufman Essex fabric from fabric.com
Camera necklace: Modcloth
Earrings: gift
Headscarf: Frenchie's Antique Mall in Jefferson City, MO
Shoes: Naturalizer via ebay

Wednesday, June 24, 2015

Mesa Dress and Father's Day


I'm a bit annoyed with google right now, I must say.  I wasted a ton of time this afternoon trying to sort out some settings that seriously messed up my blog for a few hours (apologies to anyone who tried to access it earlier today and found it to be totally absent of all images).  I finally figured out what the problem was, and then spent a bunch more time trying to fix it, and I think it is all sorted now.  I was ready to cry at a few points, though.  Not cool, google.  Not cool.


So let's talk about pretty dresses instead, okay?  I made this dress at the same time as the chambray dress, and cut it almost exactly the same, except for the neckline shape.  The fabric is Cotton + Steel, from their Mesa line, and I really like it.  (I'm particularly pleased with the top stitching on the pocket line, even though it isn't very visible at a distance.  It is the little things.)



 It has that closet staple feel to it.  I spent last week visiting my parents in the Midwest, and just took five dresses to wear for the week, including this one and the chambray that I wore on the flight out (it wore like a champ, and was the perfect traveling dress)

  



I saved this dress for Father's Day, and took some photos in my parents' backyard.  My parents live just outside of town, and their property backs up to a creek.  The day we arrived, it rained like crazy, and kept raining for several days after, so the creek was pretty full and the mosquitoes were out in force.  


It was very hot and humid on Father's Day--I was glad to get back into the air conditioning after I took these photos!  The girls slept great the whole week, and I made a (small) dent in the massive sleep deficit I've acquired these past few years.  It was a good trip and I'm sort of sad to be home.



 In retrospect, I wish I had done two things differently.  I wish I had eliminated the waist seam and cut it all in one, because there is a bit of wonkiness in the pattern placement around the waist.  I also wish I had paid a bit more attention to pattern placement on the front bodice--the pattern repeat includes a small section of black triangles that read as a blank spot at a distance, and I ended up with one of these sections in the middle of my front bodice.  Oops.  It does work well for pendant necklaces though!


I made a longish soft sash, and tied it around twice, but I have at least four leather belts in various colors that will coordinate with this dress as well, so I can change up the look.  I have several cardigans that will coordinate for cooler weather as well, and I think it will look quite nice with my lace up boots in the fall. It really is a quite versatile dress.  


My only complaint about cutting the skirt a bit narrower is that I have less room to grow as the day wears on--by the time I went to bed that night, my middle had belled out so much that I looked 7 months pregnant.  I took a picture at 11 p.m. and another at 9 a.m. the next morning, just to reassure myself that the constant up and down isn't all in my head.  I'm seeing a specialist tomorrow, and am hoping she can give me some help with all the issues I'm having.


Since this was the first time in about 12 years that we were all home for Father's Day, we made sure to take some father-daughter pictures on the front porch.  This one was my favorite.


I don't remember the last time I had a photo like this with just my dad.


We returned home yesterday, and Birdie pretty much whined the whole flight (and nothing is guaranteed to make my hair stand on end like whining), and then we had a long long cab ride home because a terrible storm hit while we were driving.  Rain just absolutely lashed down and the wind was fierce.  Lots of thunder and lightning--I almost wondered if we should even be in a vehicle, but the alternative was waiting on a train platform that would be open to the elements and then trying to get the bus. I heard there was a tornado in the next county over.  The sky was quite green here.  I had to empty almost 6 inches of water out of the previously empty pool this morning!  Our neighbor lost a big branch off the tree in front of their house and it is leaning on a power line (not ours, thankfully).  The storm also seems to have broken the terribly humidity that has hung over the city for the last few weeks.  It is warm, but not unbearable, and the house has stayed a reasonable temperature for most of the day, so I'll take it!

Outfit details:
Mesa Dress: Cotton+Steel Mesa in Navy fabric (from fabric.com), frankenpattern dress
Earrings and necklace: etsy
Shoes: Naturalizer via ebay

Talking Tuesday: Opiate of the People

I know I'm a day late with this, but I just ran across this article in my feedly today, and there is so much to think about, I had to share it.  Rod Dreher writes a review of Sam Quinones' Dreamland, and excerpted a few passages with good analysis as well.  I'm linking to Dreher's article, and reposting one of Quinones' excerpts.  I'm still thinking about it, because I think it speaks to my longing for a simple life, and perhaps identifies some of the roots of this longing in me.

"In heroin addicts, I had seen the debasement that comes from the loss of free will and enslavement to what amounts to an idea: permanent pleasure, numbness, and the avoidance of pain. But man’s decay has always begun as soon as he has it all, and is free of friction, pain, and the deprivation that temper his behavior.

In fact, the United States achieved something like this state of affairs … in the last decade of the twentieth century and the first decade of the twenty-first century. When I returned home from Mexico in those years, I noticed a scary obesity emerging. It wasn’t just the people. Everything seemed obese and excessive. Massive Hummers and SUVs were cars on steroids. In some of the Southern California suburbs near where I grew up, on plots laid out with three-bedroom houses in the 1950s, seven-thousand-square-foot mansions barely squeezed between the lot lines, leaving no place in which to enjoy the California sun.

More:


Excess contaminated the best of America. Caltech churned out brilliant students, yet too many of them now went not to science but to Wall Street to create financial gimmicks that paid off handsomely and produced nothing. Exorbitant salaries, meanwhile, were paid to Wall Street and corporate executives, no matter how poorly they did. Banks packaged rolls of bad mortgages and we believed Standard & Poor’s when they called them AAA. Well-off parents no longer asked their children to work when they became teenagers.

In Mexico, I gained a new appreciation of what America means to a poor person limited by his own humble origins. I took great pride that America had turned more poor Mexicans into members of the middle class than had Mexico. Then I would return home and see too much of the country turning on this legacy in pursuit of comfort, living on credit, attempting to achieve happiness through more stuff. And I saw no coincidence that this was also when great numbers of these same kids — most of them well-off and white — began consuming huge quantities of the morphine molecule, doping up and tuning out."


Tuesday, June 16, 2015

Back to Basics: Let's Start At the Very Beginning...


I mentioned a while back that I'm trying to work with more "garment" specific fabrics, rather than quilting-weight cottons all the time.  Part of this is an effort to challenge myself a bit, and part of it is to make some basics for my wardrobe.  I'm also trying to find the right skirt sweep, as I've discovered that I feel too old for full circle skirts, and I don't like the feeling of drowning in fabric.


I spent some time recently going through photos, mostly from Me-Made May, but some earlier ones as well, and realized that, sometimes, you have to go back to the beginning.  I made my first Frankenpatterned dress last September--the Florence dress.  It took me a while to really like it, because there were a few fit issues with the bodice, but it grew on me after a few wearings.  I decided that my combination of patterns (a modified Emery bodice together with the skirt from my vintage McCall's 4275) were a winner.  I've spent most of this past school year sewing iterations on that dress, tweaking here, adjusting there, trying some new things with the skirt sweep, the pockets, the cut and ease of the sleeves, neckline shapes, zipper placement, the finishing, the details.  


I've learned a ton by making this dress again and again, and also a bit about drafting as I've modified the Emery bodice pretty much beyond recognition.  The waist darts went with the first iteration, the bust darts are much shorter and lower than the original, the kimono sleeve adjustment I made originally has been redrafted for French sleeves (a kimono variation that has more ease of movement); I redrafted the French sleeves earlier this spring to give more wearing ease, as I was constantly feeling like my sleeves were on the edge of being too tight.  I started cutting the skirt front on the fold, and added self-yoked pockets with the Hollyburn pocket piece.  I realized I really prefer them to the patch pockets I was using in the fall.  I gave the skirt a wider sweep after trying one dress with a Hollyburn skirt.  I tried a button-down split bodice twice before realizing that I really didn't care for it.  I shortened the bodice, then shortened it some more, and then realized I'd gone too far and went for something in between.  The skirt length has been creeping ever downward, and lately has ended up at a not-quite-flattering length.


The last few times I've made this dress, with a few exceptions, I really haven't loved the result.  My Spring for Cotton dress is just okay, but the Lime Flowers dress is a disaster--it fits me weird and the color doesn't do me any favors.  It was a good experience in learning how to trim a dress, however, so not a total loss.  The Butterick 3819 was an interesting historical and creative experiment, but the color really looks terrible on me and I just don't like it that much.  


I wore my Florence dress again recently and realized how much I do like the fit and sweep of the skirt (the bodice still has some issues, but it is wearable, and considering it was the first iteration, still not bad).  It has that early 1930s vibe that I love right now, but doesn't feel costume-y. I decided to go back to cutting the skirt section as drafted on the McCall's 4275, (with the addition of the self-faced yoked pocket that I prefer), and to get back to a 27" skirt length.  I made two dresses in short order (I'll share the other one when I've had a chance to photograph it) and I'm pretty happy with both. 


This chambray one is a really nice closet staple.  It will work for all seasons, can be layered up or down, is lightweight enough for disgusting summer weather, but I think will also work for winter as well.  I like the dark indigo blue of the chambray (some chambrays wash me out or just don't look right against my skin tone).  


I'm thrilled with the skirt sweep (72" is about my limit, I think), the shape of the neckline, the length, the top stitching, the whole bit.   I had to finish the insides a bit more than I usually do because chambray wants to fray at the edges, so I pinked and zig-zagged all the major seam allowances, and then added a strip of rayon seam binding to the waist seam and prick stitched it to the bodice because I didn't want any extra thread on the seam around my middle.  I top-stitched the pockets to mimic the look of bias finishing and I'm really happy with it.   The sleeves, neckline and hem are all finished with bias tape, as usual. 


 I have two belts that work well with it, and am planning an embroidered swiss waist-style belt as part of the Historical Sew Monthly challenge for July.  This dress will also work with any number of leather belts I already have in my closet.  


My only complaint is that it wrinkles and creases with wearing, but I also think that will sort itself as it is washed more.  I think I should also cut my square necks just a smidge wider at the bottom, as I'm noticing diagonal wrinkles at the upper part of the bodice (this happens with v-necks too, but not scoop necklines--I don't know why).  It took a supreme effort of will, but I deliberately kept this dress very plain--I wanted to have something that could be accessorized in a lot of different ways, and with different colors, depending on the season (I tend to wear brighter colors in summer but darker tones in winter).


 Back to Basics Chambray Dress: Robert Kaufman Chambray Union AK Indigo, (finished with bias and rayon seam binding from the stash), heavily modified Emery bodice, McCall's 4275 skirt, Hollyburn pockets
Necklace: etsy
Earrings: a gift
Sunglasses: retronettie (ebay)
Naturalizer sandals: second hand via ebay (my brown strappy Clarks literally disintegrated on me about a week ago, so I had to find another pair of neutral/brown sandals for the season--so far these are a winner)