Yarn Along: Holiday Knitting

I have been knitting like a crazy woman these last two weeks, trying to get the girls' Candy Cane caps done in time for Nativity (we celebrate January 7, so I made it with a week to spare!) and also my own scarf to go with the dress I made.  

The caps are so stinking cute!  I found some self-striping yarn on yarn.com, and vastly overestimated the amount I would need, so I will probably knit myself a cowl or somesuch with the leftovers.  Because you can never have too many candy-cane striped accessories.

 Of course, I didn't read the instructions closely on the first one, and it has been a few years since I made the last one, so I forgot about slipping the stitches along the increase line at the back of the cap, but I kind of think it doesn't matter.  In any case, it will help me tell them apart, since the girls are basically wearing the same size cap now.

Next up: a cowl to match a skirt I just made.  I'll talk more about that skirt when I do a proper sewing post about it, which will be when I finish the cowl!  I'm using Stockbridge yarn from Valley Yarns because I really love how soft and pliable it is.  It was also the correct shade of green, so there's that.  I think I'm going to use a waffle stitch pattern, since it looks the same on both sides, and do a basic short wide scarf that is seamed in the middle.  I made a garter stitch version for my husband when I first started knitting, and I really like the looks of it.  It is simple and fast, so once I cake up those skeins, I should be good to go!

And my own Christmas scarf: a Miss Marple scarf!  I used the leftover Brava yarn from my failed Almost Lady Gansey sweater from the fall.  I wish I had made the middle part a smidge longer, but I was following the pattern instructions, and it seemed long enough.  It works, and I know garter stitch does stretch with time.  Apologies for the frightful color combination with my sweater--it does go very well with my Christmas dress.

And a bit of unselfish knitting: a cardigan for Ponchik.  I'm using the In Threes cardigan pattern, and using my leftover Amherst yarn from the Ramona cardigan this fall (I had bought almost twice what I needed, based on the pattern estimates; this seems to be a common theme--do knitting pattern designers just guess at the yardage?  I'm starting to think so)  I miscounted somewhere between the second and third tiers, and had to rip back a bunch, but I'm past that now and working the upper part of the yoke.  I have a few more rows and then divide for the body, which should make it go faster.

Finally: my Stockbridge nonpareil cardigan, which I'm really enjoying now that I've worked out the waist band pattern.  For those just tuning in, the stitch pattern on the original was totally masochistic, and written by someone I'm convinced never actually tried to knit it.  I changed the pattern to a twisted rib stitch, which is similar to the look of the original, but much easier to execute and memorize.  

The pattern has you make the waistbands first, and then cast on stitches to the top and bottom.  I've just cast off the ribbing on the bottom edge, so now I have to cast on the stitches at the top half of the back piece.  It definitely has a "hand knit" look to it, but I'm hoping that blocking may help with that.

As for reading.  I read Interrogating Ellie a week or so ago.  I can't decide if it is a good book with some uneven bits, or it is a bad book with some good bits.  It is based on the author's mother, and I think he didn't have an editor during the publication process, as the book seems a bit rough to me--there were significant gaps in the storytelling, and I felt there were some details that should have been included for clarity.  There are some turns in the narrative perspective that are disorienting at times.  That said, I really liked the story, and kept reading it to find out what happened, but I was distracted by a number of things in the actual writing.

After that, I picked up The Milliner's Secret, the sort-of-follow-on book to The Dress Thief (TDT).  I read The Dress Thief a few months ago and really enjoyed it, so I figured this one would also be good.  So far, I'm enjoying it.  Some of the minor characters from the first book show up in this one as well, and it references things that happened in TDT.  I'm poking away at Rod Dreher's How Dante Can Save Your Life, not because I'm not interested, but because each section gives much to ponder and I want to give the book its full due.  I'm also finally caught up on magazines (except for the year-end edition of The Economist, which I intend to savor).  

Linking up with Ginny for Yarn Along!

2015: A Year of Making

I always tell myself that I'm not going to do one of those year-end round up posts, but then I always end up doing one anyway.  I really love reading other bloggers (particularly sewing bloggers) who do this, so I guess I might as well!  Last year my year-end post included everything I made, and a little blurb about the fate of each piece.  I made so much stuff this year that I am overwhelmed just thinking about that!  So instead, I'm going to list my top seven makes.

1. Green Geometry Dress

I wore this dress a ton in the spring and summer.  I loved how the dress fit, I loved the trim detail, the buttons, the fabric, everything.  I got compliments from random people on the street every time I wore it.  I'm a little suspicious that it is going to be too big for me this year, given my big weight loss, and I'm debating whether to take it in.  I just tried on a bunch of stuff I made last spring, just to get an idea of what I needed to plan to make for my 2016 spring rotation, and almost nothing fits from last year--it is all huge on me and the bodices are all too long.  (The two blouses I made that were snug are a good fit now!)  Even though I really loved it last year, I've had some subtle style shifts this year, and I'm not sure that dress suits me any longer.  I'll try it on again in February and see where I'm at. 

2.  Chambray Dress

This dress is, hands down, my most worn dress.  It goes with everything, works for all seasons, layers up well, and does well in the heat.  I've made some small modifications to it since I originally made it, and like it even better now.  I will make another one when this one wears out or gets too big to look nice.

3.  Zwei Leben Skirt

This is my best skirt to date, and my most worn skirt currently.  I feel great when I wear it, and it goes with everything.  I'm planning a lighter weight chambray version for the spring and summer.

4. Tokyo Train Ride dress

I loved this dress when I first made it, and I wore it almost as much as the Green Geometry dress in the late winter and early spring.  I put it away for the summer and fall and was very eager to wear it again this winter.  I've worn it twice this month, and I'm sort of out of love with it.  I still really love the print on the fabric, but the fit is kind of weird.  It is too big, and I don't really love the square neckline so much any more.  It is also much longer than I'm currently making my dresses.  I realize the hemline is an easy fix, but the rest would require taking the whole dress apart and taking it in, and I'm uncertain I want to.  It has a center back zip, which I don't do any more with my dresses, and the bodice is a bit long.  I suppose I could take the whole dress apart, sew up the back seam, take in the bodice and skirt, shorten the bodice, shorten the skirt, make the neckline more round, but at a certain point, I wonder whether I'd be better off starting fresh.  I did have to piece the bodice on that dress, so I'd like to remake it without that issue.  I'm realizing that some dresses are good for a season or two, and that is okay.

5. Green Cookie Book dress/Feedsack dress

This is a two-fer, and I mention them not because they were such favorites, but because they are good examples of the sort of fit I was trying to achieve with my frankenpattern, and I'm very happy with the finished product on these dresses.  I wore the green one a lot this fall, and plan to put it into my spring rotation.  The feedsack dress came into my fall rotation kind of late, so I only wore it a few times before the weather changed, but I'm eager to wear it again in the spring.  

6: 1922 Embroidered Linen Dress

I put this dress on the list because I really enjoyed the process of making this dress, and it was my first attempt at working with linen, but I didn't really end up wanting to wear the finished product.  I thought it would be great for my fall rotation, but I fell out of love with the style by the fall.  It was also too big for me by the fall.  I passed it along to a friend who I hope will enjoy the style more than I currently do!  I was also chuffed to find out that The Dreamstress had listed this dress as one of her favorite Historical Sew Monthly Makes for June!  

7. Rust Cord Skirt/Autumn Flowers blouse/Green Ramona Cardigan

I like all of these pieces individually, but I also really liked that my whole outfit was me-made.  I wore that skirt a lot this fall, and it made it into my winter rotation as well.  I was happy to have a heavier-weight cardigan that worked with so much of my fall rotation.  I wished I had started knitting it sooner, as I didn't get to wear it as much as I would have liked.  (Although, it must be said: it is a weird weather year this year) This blouse remains one of my favorite fabrics and the Portrait style is so unfussy and lovely to wear.  I still have the original blouse I made from it, as I can't quite bear to give it up, even though it no longer suits my style.

***

I made a lot of changes to my frankenpattern this year, and I'm pretty happy with where it is right now in terms of fit and comfort.  I learned a lot about fitting, and am pretty satisfied with the fit of the last few skirts I've made.  I realized that style is a mutable thing; mine is changing as I'm getting a bit older.  I prefer straight skirts to full, and am even moving away from a-line skirts.  I prefer my skirts and dresses to hit at the bottom of my kneecap, and I currently like a certain granny-chic style of layering.  I bought the dottie angel simplicity 1080 pattern to make some dresses in that style for this spring--it is very similar to my current frankpattern.  I'm making a wearable muslin in January to check the fit before I start making too many plans in that direction.  

I'm still working on knitting things I really want to wear--I had several busts this year, and while I really like the Ramona cardigan and enjoy wearing it, there are a few things I wish I had done differently on it; I may pull out the cuff ribbing and change that at some point.  Or not.

I also am realizing that I don't knit particularly fast, and I need to build in smaller projects that will work for each rotation.  I do wear my knitted cowls, gauntlets and fingerless gloves all the time, and those are fast and easy projects. I make a couple of caps for the girls to wear to church every winter.  

I just can't count on finishing 3 sweaters in the fall to wear for winter.  I was a bit overambitious in my sweater plans this year, and had to buy a few ready-to-wear pullovers just to make sure I had enough warm stuff to wear this winter!  I'm okay with that.  I knit more for the therapeutic and creative nature of having needles in my hands than for a totally useful finished product or a 100% me-made wardrobe.  I'm always going to have some ready-to-wear in my closet.  I should probably work on blankets instead, but sweaters just call my name.  I'm determined to find a pattern I really love the fit of.  I have another Brown Stitch cardigan pattern I'm hoping to make up sometime in 2016--it really suits my current sartorial mood.

And just what is my sartorial mood?  Well, I'd describe it as: Swedish-librarian-granny-chic. I figure if Lucky Lucille can go with Post-Apocalyptic Woodland Fairy, I can go with mine.

I've decided that I don't really want to wear synthetic fibers, and I'm not going to buy them (in yarn or fabric form) if I can help it (coats/parkas are the exception to this rule).  My style has gotten very basic this year, and I have moved away from the interesting details that used to characterize my projects.  Decorative buttons and belts annoy me, and my kids fiddle a lot with my brooches, so I don't wear them much these days.  I have a handful of earrings that I wear a lot, and a few sturdy neutral necklaces.  I'm wearing Heidi braids in my hair a lot.  I've learned a lot about how to fit clothing to my body, both in sewing and ready-to-wear, but I still have a lot to learn, particularly as my body is changing a lot again with all this weight loss.  I still have about 15 pounds to lose, so I'm trying to steer toward projects that are less fitted and still flattering to my shape.

Here's to 10,000 hours in 2016!

Talking Tuesday: St. Maria of Paris

image via Facebook

Talking Tuesday: The Power of Memory Redux

Revisiting Kundera's themes again.  Rod Dreher writes about the state of education today, and how remembering the past, learning our history, understanding our place in Western Civilization, can be an act of resistance to the zeitgeist:

"Connerton says that modernity is a condition of deliberate forgetting, of choosing to deny the power of the past to affect our actions in the present, so as to create a new condition of existence marked by the individual’s freedom of choice. Capitalism requires this deliberate forgetting, and facilitates it, and rites we invent in modern times “are palliative measures, façades erected to screen off the full implications of this vast worldwide clearing operation.” 

...
What does this mean? He’s telling us that in modernity, the market is our god. It conditions what we imagine to be possible. We can’t dream that life should be ordered by rituals that bound and define our experience, and link it to the past, to a sacred order. There is no sacred order; there is only the here and now, the tangible. The world exists to be remade to fit our desires. There are no ways of living that we should conform our lives to, no stories that tell us how we should live. When Connerton says that in modernity, and under capitalism, we can hardly “imagine life as a structure of exemplary recurrence,” he’s saying that we can no longer easily believe that we should live according to set patterns of thought and action because they conform to eternal truths.

...

The Benedict Option has to be about learning to love the past, and to care about it, to the point of suffering for it. And not just “the past,” which can become an idol, but the God and the faith that comes to us through the past, in Scripture, and in Tradition. We cannot make it up as we go along. Churches that do this in an attempt to be relevant and seeker-sensitive are preparing their flocks for assimilation to the secular culture."

~Rod Dreher, Educating for a Dark Age, American Conservative Blog, December 22, 2015

Read the whole thing.

A Hint of Butterscotch

I don't have much to write about this dress except for the fact that I made it from Hampton Twill, and it was my first go at making my Frankenpattern with a heavier weight material.  It actually worked out pretty well.  I've had this fabric in my bin for quite a while now, and had intended to make something else with it, but this type of dress is what I wear most often, so I decided to just go for it.

I had originally intended red buttons and buckle, but thought it might be too limiting as a color palette (although I do love red and peacock teal together!)  I saw this butterscotch set (rescued from the Mustang Daisy dress after I accidentally shrunk it in the wash) and decided it was a good color coordination.

I almost did some hand embroidery around the neckline in a neutral color, but decided I just needed to keep the dress simple, and also, I didn't really have time to take on a project like that.  This dress just needed to go into the winter rotation.  I finished it sometime in November, and I have to move the slide for the hook and eye on the belt already--I had to pin it this morning.

The color of the twill didn't really come through on the photos--it is a much more saturated teal color than it looks like.  The sweater is a merino number I picked up from the Gap in November.  It is very cropped, just to give you an idea of how short-waisted I really am.

I think it is a nice length for dresses.  I do wish it had a wider scoop so I could wear it as a top, because jewel necklines just look bad on me.  I've pretty much decided I shouldn't wear turtlenecks, crew necks, or jewel necks, no matter how much I like them.  Cowl and scoop necks are much more flattering on me.

The detail on this button and buckle set is just lovely--I really love the deep saturated color.

This photo shows the color of the dress a bit better.  It is quite a dark teal, really.

I wasn't sure about it until I did the photos, but I think it is a good dress.

It is St. Nicholas Day today, so the kids found these in their shoes this morning:

The peg dolls are their patron saints.  I commissioned them from a friend with an etsy shop. She does amazing work.  I have another set of four that I'm saving for Boo's namesday.

Peacock Twill dress: Hampton Twill in Peacock, bias tape, vintage buttons/belt buckle, zip, elastic for waist

Red merino wool cropped sweater: Gap

Tights: Foot Traffic

Boots: Macy's

Brooch: etsy

Earrings: Target

Northern Lights

I mentioned I bought some flannel to make a dress to round out my winter wardrobe.  

It ended up being single napped, which I was initially unhappy about, but in the end, I'm glad it is.  It keeps the insides from sticking together, and made the construction a bit easier as the wrong side was very easy to tell from the right side.  It is one of those prints that looks different up close than far away--the pine tree design is much more obvious at a distance.

I debated a long time about the buttons, and tried a lot of different configurations.  In the end, I decided they perked the fabric up a lot, so I left them on (for now).  Actually, they barely survived the day; I clipped them off before hanging the dress back in my closet in the evening.

I did end up lengthening the bodice a smidge too long on this one (I cut it using the Zephyr pieces as a guide and forgot that I had already added the length to the Zephyr, so I added a bit more and overdid it).  I think it isn't too bad, though, and the wide sash helps a bit.

My basic issue right now is that nothing feels quite right to me.  I know this a recurring problem for me, so I'm trying to wait it out.  I do like this dress, and still really like the style; I find it very comfortable (and paired with this undershirt, it is warm enough for this unseasonable weather we are having!), but I don't know.  I don't absolutely love it.  It is a functional piece for this season and works well with my winter palette.  I guess that is okay.

The buttons came from my gram's stash, and there were nine.  I hate leaving orphans, so I sewed the extra into the bottom seam of the dress.  As one of the buttons on the front seems loose already, I may end up needing it!

Lots of leaves on the ground still!  Feels more like November than mid-December.

I made the sash a bit wider than usual, and made the length according to the length on my chambray sash, as I really like how that one looks.  I did do an elastic casing on the waist, as usual, but the dress looks better with the sash.  It happened that I had nearly perfect pattern matching at the waist seam, but it was a happy accident--of course.  When I *try* to match things, it never quite lines up.

I promise, the buttons are evenly spaced--the angle of the photo makes them look uneven.  It was a total pain to measure and pin those suckers.

In other sartorial news, I made the happy discovery that washing *and drying* my twill skirts from this fall shrunk them enough to fit well again!  I suppose in any other context, this would be a disaster, but given that I was ready to give them away because they were too big to effectively take in, that is a good thing.  I will be careful not to dry them again until I need another shrink!  Good thing, as I really could use another skirt in the rotation.  I did decide to take the Shetland flannel skirt in, because it is just such a useful skirt and I love it so much, but I'm waiting a bit to take it in, to see where I land in January.  I've taken the zip out and the waistband off in anticipation of the new side seams.  

Northern Lights dress: flannel from fabric.com, bias tape, zip, vintage buttons

Pinecone earrings: willfulmina's etsy store

boots: Macy's

Zephyr

I don't know what is wrong with me lately, but I seem to be a bit short on creative mojo.  Maybe it is the season, or maybe just being run down from all the drama with my throat and the kids' ongoing health issues.  Probably some combination of the above.  

Suffice to say: this dress almost didn't get made.

I had three dresses cut out and waiting for addition into my winter wardrobe.  After the Pyjama dress debaucle, I knew I needed to make a third dress or I was going to be a bit short on my wardrobe needs for winter.  I ended up buying some single napped cotton flannel from fabric.com that I washed and cut out immediately.  I had already cut this dress and my Christmas dress, so I decided to do an assembly line with the sewing, since I could use the same dark navy thread for all three dresses.

I'm still not sure whether this was a good idea or not.  When I make one dress at a time, I can finish it in about 3 hours.  Making three at a time, doing all the pesky work times three, I ended up finishing two of the three dresses over three sessions, and still have the Christmas dress to finish.  I didn't really enjoy the process much at all, so I probably won't do that again.

I can't decide what I think of this dress.  The fabric is from Cotton+Steel, which I typically love, but this particular fabric isn't quite as soft and fluid as the others I've bought from them.  Since I was working with my Christmas dress at the same time (also from Cotton+Steel), I could really tell the difference.  I'm hoping it is just extra sizing and will soften with additional washing.  The color is a little strange too--it was listed as being "midnight navy", but it seems more black in person (in the photos, I realize it looks more dark navy).  I lengthened the bodice about 1/2" to make up for what I lose to the waist casing, and I think this works nicely.

I also put bright cobalt buttons and a matching buckle on the belt, in the style of the Button Dress, but decided after putting it on this morning that I really didn't like the looks of them, so I took off the buttons and swapped out the belt buckle.  I need to repeat to myself: simple is better, simple is better, simple is better.  I know I will wear this more often if it is unfussy.

The belt came out a bit big anyway, so everything is held together with safety pins until I can resew the snap and buckle properly.  I do like how the belt came together, even if it was a bit pesky.  There is an elastic waist casing as per my usual, so the belt is optional, but I do like the looks of it.

My bust darts came out slightly too long, I realized after putting it on this morning, but given how dark the fabric is, I think it isn't too noticeable at a distance.  I'm hoping to find a blue undershirt that will coordinate with this dress and the Midnight Sky dress, since they are similar blues.

My neighbor's cat was in the window watching me take pictures this morning.  Can you see his feet peeking out?  His name is Handsome, and my neighbor calls him Sam for short.  He's a pretty all-white cat, often to be found sitting in the living room windows.

In other news, I watched Phoenix this week.  I've been eager for that one to hit Netflix, and it exceeded my expectations.  Nina Hoss is one of my favorite German actresses, and she is so good in this one.  It is about a woman returning from the camps after WW2 with terrible disfiguring burns.  She has plastic surgery to repair her face, but then has to try and put her life back together after everything that has happened to her.  I won't say more, because there is so much that is wrapped up in the story, and the ending is devastating in a kind of terrible but beautiful way, so I won't spoil it.

Just the facts:

Zephyr Dress: Cotton+Steel fabric, bias tape, zip, vintage belt buckle, snap, petersham ribbon (for stabilizing the belt), elastic

Black undershirt: Ann Taylor (via ThredUp)

Tights: Foot Traffic

Boots: Macy's

Celtic jewelry: Ireland/Scotland

Yarn Along: Nonpareil Sweater

I mentioned that I cast on another sweater this week--I had some purple yarn from earlier in the fall that I was quite eager to work with.  I finally got it caked up, and couldn't resist casting on a sweater I've been eyeing all fall: the Nonpareil from a Berroco knit catalog.  I bought it earlier in the fall expressly for this pattern.  I was initially intimidated by the instructions, but after making the Ramona and finishing the 1918 Walking Sweater, I was feeling pretty confident about the stuff that made me nervous.

The yarn I'm using is Stockbridge, from Valley Yarns, and it is so delicious.  It is a wool-alpaca mix and so soft and squishy.  I love working with it--it just feels good in my hands.  As you can see, I've knit the back waistband, and started on the lower section of the back piece.  This sweater is knit flat and then seamed, which I do not mind at all.  I'm hopeful that between knitting a size down from my full bust measurement and the flat construction that I'll get the shoulders to fit properly.

I did make one change to the pattern--the pattern has you work the waistband pieces first, and then pick up and knit the top and bottom pieces flat from there.  The instructions for the waistband were fiendishly difficult, and I suspect written by someone who probably didn't attempt to knit them that way.  I did get gauge one needle size larger than called for, so perhaps that was the problem, but knitting over slipped stitches on two sides was making me crazy--I had to stop on every stitch and it was just painful going.  I got 1/2" in and was ready to tear my hair out.  I ripped out the whole thing and tried to figure out something that would give a similar look.  I ended up substituting a twisted mock cable stitch and it looks great and worked perfectly with the existing pattern!  It looks a lot like the original stitch pattern called for, and was much easier to work.  Plus it was easier to memorize.  So, a win all around.

I'm still working on How Dante Can Save Your Life, and started watching season 4 of Homeland.  I'm completely engrossed--that show has that effect.  I'm sort of weirdly interested in Claire Danes because she is almost exactly my age.  I know. Weird.  I don't understand it either.

In completely unrelated news, I had a full cup of Starbucks coffee explode all over my desk this morning.  I was getting ready to write our Advent letter, and I picked it up and the top completely came off, and coffee went everywhere.  Thankfully it missed my knitting!  But I had to change my entire outfit, clean my whole desk and a large portion of the floor around it, and clean the keyboard as best I could.  It still smells strongly of coffee in here.  I think what I'm most put out about is the fact that I only rarely get a hot coffee. (I keep bottled iced coffee in the fridge for my daily fix) By the time I got everything cleaned up, (twice, because it happened again when I picked up the cup again!) the coffee was decidedly unhot.

Fun times.

Joining Ginny for Yarn Along!

Pyjama Dress

Today I present a Wadder.  I almost don't want to show this dress.  It is a good example of why one should avoid fabrics in the clearance bin of a big box craft retailer, no matter how enticing.  I think it is helpful to show the failures in addition to the wins, in part for my own creative process, and in part because I know I learn from other's mistakes!  Hopefully my flub will help someone else in the future. 

I bought this fabric on clearance at Joann's this summer, intending to use it for a winter dress.  I had had my eye on the fabric for a few months but they never had enough yardage in stock for my needs, and then it went on super clearance and had enough to buy, so I snapped it up.  I let it sit all summer and most of the fall, after I decided I would use it for my winter rotation.

I got around to washing it sometime in late October or early November, and I probably should have given up at that point.  It is a loosely woven cotton flannel, on the thin side, that went severely off grain during washing and I could.not.straighten.it.  Every time I thought I had it on grain, it would go off in another place. 

Cutting this dress was extremely stressful as a result.  The fabric was pretty narrow (41", some of which was lost in the washing, so it was almost like working with a vintage yardage) and I didn't have enough for yoked pockets.  

I did inseam pockets to avoid some hassle.  I'm getting better at applying a zip behind the inseam pocket.  

Sewing this dress was equally stressful.  The plaid was hard to match (except at the waist--I'm pretty proud of my matching there!) and I could tell it was pretty wonky in terms of grain.  With some fabrics you can get away with this, with a rectangular on-grain plaid, not so much. I'd like to say that that opposing diagonals of the bodice and skirt are a design feature, but sadly, they just aren't. 

Perhaps a more experienced seamstress would have done a better job with this fabric; perhaps a more experienced seamstress would have run away from the fabric to start with!  In any case, this dress is a failure.  I tried wearing it on Saturday, hoping it would be a kind of a schlubby Saturday-type dress, but it isn't as warm as I was expecting and it twists a bit and hangs weirdly from being off-grain.  In short: it just feels bad to wear.  I suppose I'll just chalk it up to a good learning experience.  And maybe stay away from plaids for a while.

Oh well.  Sometimes you win some, sometimes you lose some.