Showing posts with label elemental skirt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label elemental skirt. Show all posts

Monday, March 21, 2022

Basically a sweatshirt...but call it fashun

It seems like every spring I make a number of sewing mistakes, or have a string of outright fails.  Happily, today's makes are not fails, but they both emerged from mistakes.  (Incidentally, this outfit came together exactly how I saw it in my head, so I'm pretty pleased with that).


I found some beautiful sage-green cotton terry from Birch Organics and thought to make another Toaster, since my chili one is a nice spring piece, and we're having quite a few days lately where a wool sweater is not the thing. When the fabric arrived and I realized it was 70" wide (70! inches! wide!), I knew I could make a Toaster dress if I wanted to. I used the Coco dress as a guide for the bottom piece and blended the top and bottom together. I figured if it looked terrible, I could always cut it off at the waist and add the bottom band back in for my original plan.

After wearing the chili Toaster a handful of times, I thought it felt a bit too roomy--I think the Tencel content gives it more stretch than the wool-cotton blend on my first one, and I wanted to experiment with a slightly smaller fit without printing a new pattern size.  I sewed the seam allowances on the top portion at 1/2" (the pattern calls for 3/8") and graded out to 3/8" below the waist, then to 1/4" on the skirt portion.  

Well friends, the Toaster dress looked terrible. I don't know if it was the fabric, or the color, or the fit or what, but it was not happiness. The fit on the top was fine--just the right amount of ease and fit, but the skirt part looked off. So I didn't even hem the thing and just measured and cut to length, and then cut the bottom band out of the top of the skirt portion. For visual interest, I used the wrong side of the fabric on the collar, cuffs, and bottom band, which I like very much.

And the skirt.  My original plan was to make a black version of my quilted sage knit skirt, but the company sent the wrong fabric--a heavy black cotton sweater knit.  After I contacted them about the mix up, the owner offered me several options to fix it, and I decided to keep the sweater knit at a discount and see how it worked instead--variety is the spice of life and all that.  

I thought it would work well with the Elemental Skirt, and so set to it.  I shortened it to the length I was using in the summer, and also straightened some of the pegging near the knees to give myself a bigger walking stride.  It's still pegged, but not as severely.  I added 3/4" to the front and back of the skirt (essentially grading it up a size and a half instead of my usual 1/2" grade) because my Elemental skirts from last spring are slightly snug right now and I thought this fabric would be unforgiving.  I used a 27" Ban-Rol elastic, which is perfect right now.

My only complaint is that the fabric sheds a TON because of the machine knitting.  I finished the edges more than I usually do on a knit for that reason.  The waistband was also slightly tricky as a result.  But the result is comfortable, smooth, and seems to have good recovery for an all-cotton knit.   In any case, I'm totally happy with this fun spring addition.  

Saturday, November 13, 2021

Shoulder Season

Top (L-R): Cypress sweater/Free Range skirt; rtw cotton sweater/Zwei Leben II denim skirt/Chinook scarf; Garnet Boneyard scarf/Arctic drop shoulder linen shirt/Free Range skirt; Bottom (L-R): Cypress sweater/Chinook scarf/blue terry Elemental skirt; Beet linen drop shoulder shirt/Beet Free Range skirt (unblogged); Evendoon sweater/Hunter terry Elemental skirt

Rae recently did a fall outfits post, and I thought it might be fun to do the same.  I like seeing older makes on other sewists, and seeing how they put outfits together from new and old pieces, so the following is a series of outfits I wore in the past month or so.  It should be said that the weather has been all over the place this fall.  

Top (L-R): Spruce Carbeth/Marigold linen skirt; Teal knit Coco top/Chinook scarf/Free Range skirt; Dawn linen drop shoulder top/Free Range skirt; Bottom (L-R): Pine Remy Raglan/Rust cord skirt; Seafoam Remy Raglan (unblogged)/Oregano cord skirt/rtw plaid wrap; Pine Remy Raglan/Mustard cord skirt

It was early October before I could even think about tights, and then there was a week of sweater weather in the middle of the month, followed by milder temps again.  Mostly we are into legit fall weather, although the temps are supposed to continue to drop (thank the Lord) this coming week. 


The new linen drop shoulder tops have gotten a lot of wear, as they don't make me sweat and don't have to be tucked in so I get air movement underneath.  Ditto the Free Range skirt hack, and my newly elasticated Rose skirt hack which are my new favorite skirts.  I used the last bit of teal knit from the dress I made this summer to make a 3/4 sleeve Coco top that I intend to replicate.

Just a basic top, but at a length I don't have to tuck in to look nice.  Short-waisted people of the world represent!  I used Tilly and the Buttons' Coco dress and cut it at the lengthen/shorten line, which seems about right.  I cut a size 5 for the top, although I grade to a 6 at the bottom for a dress.  I faced the neckline, cuffs, and hem with 1" wide fabric strips, which I like, but I might try a simple turn under on a future iteration.  The seam allowances are generous, and I could possibly use a smidge more room across the chest and back, so I'll probably sew the side seams at 1/2" next time.

My yellow Chinook scarf gets a lot of wear around this time of year, and the yellow goes with a lot of my clothes by virtue of being one of those strange neutrals.  It is a linen-cotton blend, so the perfect fiber/weight for this time of year.  

 

I do have more trouble wearing scarves since I started having hot flashes--anything close around my neck can bring them on--but I'm learning to wear an interesting necklace under the scarf so that when I inevitably have to ditch it, I still look like I put together an intentional outfit. 


Katie Kortman does a lot of color challenges and one time she challenged analogous color combos (colors that are next to each other on the color wheel).  I've always wanted to try it, but couldn't quite pull off the right combination until I hit upon this one.  I really like the Cypress with the Elemental and the pop of yellow from the scarf.   I'd like to crack a monochrome combo as well (otherwise known as #dresslikeacrayon) but still haven't found the right combination. 

On to flannels!

Wednesday, October 27, 2021

On making

I've been thinking lately about why I make things.  Mostly it is is utilitarian--I make clothes or quilts.  But it is more than that.  There is an intersection of sacred time and sacred space that needs to be expressed as physical beauty in everyday life.  I think occupying in that cosmic space is why traditional societies decorate their clothes and homes with patterns and designs that are beautiful and symbolic for their own sake, not for any utilitarian value the decoration brings.  There is an important spiritual orientation in the making.

with my French terry rose Elemental skirt

I often struggle with guilt over my making, since I do make more than I technically need.  And there is a drum beat in my head about the environmental cost of absolutely everything I do.  That drum beat is fairly unhealthy, I realize, and I'm trying to find balance between saving everything and throwing it all away , but it is hard.  The past few weeks have been a flurry of making on an order unsurpassed, and I realize it is coming from a place of distress, from the need to keep busy to keep my mind from running away with me about my dad.  I wake up in the morning and I think, what useless thing will I sew today?   But I try to remind myself that there is value in the act of making itself, in the creation of something beautiful, even if the thing isn't perfect.


The need to make is an itch that is hard to scratch in other ways. Artists have long made things simply for the beauty of the created thing--be it a painting or a sculpture or whathaveyou, and there is not inherent utility in the finished piece beyond the beauty it may bring to the world. 


I've been re-reading the Throne of Glass series the last few weeks (I read all seven books in a big gulp last fall, and while I wanted to take my time this go-round, I seem to be gulping them down again...but I digress). In the fantasy series, the characters who have magic have to release it in small amounts every day to keep it from building up in them and becoming unmanageable. The urge to create feels a bit like that to me.


Anyway, enough about that.  I made this Remy Raglan over the summer, intending to save it for the fall, since the fabric is a wee bit too heavy for summer.  It is the same fabric as one of Peggy's samples, and I don't mind being a lemming one bit in this instance.  


I love this blouse so much.  The fabric was a splurge for me, but it was worth the cost too.  I ended up finding the same fabric on sale this fall and bought enough for a skirt as well, not to wear these together, but just to have more this squish in my closet.  (I'll show the skirt soon; it is delightful).  I made the shirt specifically to go with my mustard cord skirt, as I have a sweater near this color that I love to wear with this skirt, but the sweater is too heavy to wear in these shoulder months.  

Wind tunnel!

I made a straight size 8 as usual, but fiddled with the length again, as my original cropped length feels a tiny bit too short.  I originally took off 2 1/4" from the pattern length, but am adding back in 1" now, and that seems to be about right when I do a bias bound hem.  


I've gotten the hang of making my own bias now, and if I can spare the fabric, I usually do that.  (I cut the bias as efficiently as possible, to preserve yardage, so it means I have a fair number of joins on any given piece, but I don't care).  


The drape of this silky noil is perfect for this top, and it is so light and comfortable against my skin, a plus for my hot flashy perimenopausal self.  (Also, can I just point out that Google's spell check writers apparently doesn't know what perimenopausal means, since it keeps flagging it with no suggested spellings?  Grr.)

Anyway, a happy make, combined with another happy make (or two), and good things all around.  Off to sew another Remy today in some seafoam-colored Brussels linen.  The only question is: should I go for the sleeve expansion pattern that is definitely Extra, and possibly not my style, or stick with what I like?  Make the button collar or keep it plain? Stay tuned for the answer!


*And about my dad.  He started chemotherapy yesterday, and will have a five day course before they consider sending him home.  The therapy course will take about six months to complete. The good news is that the histology reports came back with lymphoma instead of lung cancer.  Lymphoma is more treatable, so there is a chance he could come through this.  That said, the lymphoma is fairly advanced, so there's a long road ahead.  My dad has an excellent oncologist, and a great medical team around him, so the Lord continues to accompany us through this journey and we will continue to pray.  Thank you for all the notes and prayers--keep 'em coming!  Prayer does not change God, it changes us (C.S.Lewis).  

Thursday, October 14, 2021

On unicorns and linen

So.  There are some hard things going on that I'm not prepared to write about yet, but if you are a praying sort, please hold my extended family in your prayers if you would.  I'm sewing things I don't really need to keep my hands and mind occupied, so expect to see a fair amount of makes and not very much in the way of Deep Thoughts.  I suppose it is a good way to try out new things?

#sewnshownseated


I mentioned that I'm on the hunt for a unicorn of a summer weight skirt pattern.  I love my slim skirts in the late fall and winter, but the heavier fabric is totally unsuitable for our swampy (and long) summers, and I've never really been able to find something that worked well with linen, which is my preferred warm weather fabric.  

A few weeks ago, I was organizing my fabric bin (again) and saw the Purple Violet Squish dress in there, waiting for the chop.  I had no firm plans for it (just a vague thought of maybe cutting it down for one of the girls at some point), but decided that it might be worth taking off the bodice and making a waist casing and see if I can get a functional summer weight skirt out of it.  Not that I particularly need more skirts, but it was an experiment with low stakes.  Worse case, the thing could go back in the bin for a later cut down.  

Plus, another unicorn discovery: summer church shoe conundrum solved!  Dankso to the rescue again.  Thrifted Jacindas, possibly even more comfortable than my Birks. 

I had a decent amount of fabric left from the original dress, so I cut a waistband facing and some 1.5" elastic ban-rol. I used my Elemental skirt pattern as a guide for the elastic and application method, and am totally happy with the result! (I've worn the skirt three times since). I didn't think a fully elastic skirt would work, as my previous attempts have been utter disasters, but something about the way the elastic is applied in the Elemental skirt keeps it from looking bunchy and weird.  Plus, very comfortable!  I'm really digging woven fabrics right now.  They feel more put together to me than a knit, for whatever reason.  If I'm going to wear a knit, I like to pair it with a woven, but I'm enjoying wovens on top and bottom too.

Birdie was my photographer for all these photos, and this one cracks me up. 

As to the specifics, the dress was made with the M7353 skirt, which is drafted for a knit, but I've used it several times on wovens.  I think I still cut the smallest size in the packet, but possibly made the seam allowances 3/8"?  I made the dress long enough ago (and altered it several times after making) that I can't be 100% certain). 

The waistband facing came from the Elemental Skirt (or maybe the Free Range Slacks, I can't be certain), adapted for the width of this skirt, although I think they were quite similar.  I applied the elastic as with the Elemental skirt (Peggy's application instructions for this are genius, by the way), but then sewed down the bottom of the facing to the skirt itself as with the Free Range Slacks.  (Stay tuned for a future post on the Free Range Slacks).


After that success, I wanted to try a similar hack on the embroidered linen skirt.  Shortly after my post, I deconstructed the entire thing and put it back together on slimmer lines, but it still looked terrible.  I decided to try the faced elasticized waistband trick on it, thinking that it couldn't hurt to try.   


At that point I had a skirt that was totally unwearable, and I was even considering cutting up the pieces to use the embroidered bits on something else.  I kept the original waistband piece on but took off the ban-rol interfacing and removed the 1" ban rol elastic from the back and folded everything down to accomodate a 1.5" ban-rol elastic.  

I'm pleased to report that with about 30 minutes of hand sewing, I have a totally wonderful wearable skirt!  If anyone wants to replicate what I did, cut the Everyday Skirt side panels at half width and apply waistband with a 1" seam allowance, with tiny tucks near the pocket facing edges at the top.  Sew waistband to back edge and fold over to create a faced edge, then fold the edge under about 3/8".  


Hand or machine sew down the bottom edge, leaving a gap to insert elastic.  Cut ban-rol elastic to length (I like mine around 29", which includes a 1/2" overlap, and my waist measurements are around 33").  Alternatively, sew elastic ends together and sew casing closed after insertion.  The latter method is slightly trickier, but less tedious, in my opinion.  


And for those with keen eyes, you'll notice that I've altered my Remy Raglan as well.  I have been crushing on mid-18th century silhouettes again (blame a rewatch of Outlander), and wanted to modify this shirt into something evocative of a 1750s bodice.  Since I don't wear stays on the daily, I knew it was going to be an echo rather than the full concert, but I like the shaping on this, and have worn it a few times since, much more happily than in the spring.   

This.  Can I just wear this on repeat?  Preferably in some place cold like Scotland?  Please and thank you.

I did two sets of 1/2" tucks on the front and one set of 5/8" tucks on the back, using the Sorrel dress bodice tucks as a rough guide.  It is still fine going on over my head.  I had thought about opening up the center seam and converting it to a lacing closure, but decided to leave this as is for now.  I may do it on a future iteration, however.  What it is about a laced bodice that is so appealing?  (There is a fine line between appealing 18th century laced bodice and costume-y pirate girl, and I want to stay on the side of the former and not the latter, obviously!)

So a few successes, anyway.  Right now, I'll take what I can get.

Friday, July 16, 2021

California Queen

Or something.  

Where to begin?  We just returned from California to visit family, so I'm a bit jet-lagged and behind on everything.  At least I did the wash before I left CA. 

With my gorgeous sister-in-law at a rare restaurant treat.  Even rarer? It was adults only!

The time there gave me a lot to think about in terms of the choices we make about how we live in our homes, what makes for true flourishing, both as a family unit and more generally speaking.  I'm not yet ready to write about it, but it might even coalesce into a novel, who knows?

I did a bunch of sewing in the week or two leading up to the trip that I haven't shared yet, so might as well get to it!  Spoiler alert: three wins and a meh.

 
 
The first win is a white handkerchief linen Remy Raglan (no surprise there) that I lurve.  I added an inch to the length because I had a yard and a half to work with, and I think it is perfect. 

The cotton ball in my ear is for a freak swimmer's ear infection at the beginning of July.  Somehow without swimming?

I was going on the experience of another Remy I made for the fall that I also had slightly more yardage to work with and made an inch longer.  Both versions are now 1.25" shorter than pattern length.   I'll show the other one when the weather cools.

I was able to get the yardage on a doggie bag remnant from Fabrics-store.com, so the price was very nice, and the fabric is beautiful and light.  

There is still a bit of sizing in the fabric, despite a prewash and hot dry, so I expect it to get that delightfully rumpled look with time and wearing.  It has the added bonus of being a great dress layer in lieu of a cardigan, so it is quite versatile!

The second win is another Elemental skirt (again, no surprise!) that I've been wearing almost constantly since I finished it.  Unfortunately, I only have a terrible locker room photo from the rec center where the kids swim, but you get the idea.  The shade is pretty close to my linen Rose hack skirt from last year (and the  Remy I made with the same linen this year).  I used the same etsy seller for the knit fabric (it is seriously nice stuff!).  I've bought several colorways from her now, and am really impressed with the color saturation and hand of the fabric.  It is slightly more to the blue end of the teal spectrum, but it looks good with my Mosaic Emerald from last year, as well as the color-blocked one in Biking Red, so that's great!  (I was hoping it would be a match for the Sphinx for a #dresslikeacrayon outfit, but the tone is just slightly off)

Still getting unpacked and into the right time zone, so moving slowly today. Hope to show the other finished projects next week!

Monday, June 21, 2021

The ecology of the bread bag

As far as sewing goes, I am more or less a two-trick pony, and tend to stick to pieces and silhouettes that I know I like.  Sometimes I break out of the mold and try something new, as with last year's Emerald tops or this year's Remys, but mostly I don't.  

 
 
The free Elemental skirt pattern from Sew House 7 has been my go-to pattern since it was released in the spring.  Comfortable, easy to wear, a fast sew, efficient with fabric (slightly less than a yard).  I think I've worked out the kinks with sizing across various stretch percentages.  It's too hot now to wear my French terry ones, so my airy yellow one has been in heavy rotation.

So I made two more (and have another yard of fabric waiting to be made up...oops).  This green one I made for Pentecost yesterday, and it is the most perfect shade of green ever.  It was much brighter and more saturated than it looked like on the listing, and I was thrilled when I opened the package.

 
 
It is shorter than I'd planned because I made a tiny cutting mistake, but still a good summer length.  (Cutting these at pattern length for summer can be stuffy, even in light weight fabric like this, so I've been shortening slightly for the heat).  I discovered I was out of the right width of Ban-rol elastic as well, so had to use something else that isn't quite as nice, but might swap it out when I get more of the good stuff.

 
I also made this berry colored one from some Telio cotton/spandex knit.  This is the first knit fabric I've bought where washing significantly changed the hand.  It was crunchy and icky feeling when I pulled it out of the mailer.  The fabric felt like disgusting polyester.  So much so that I actually called to return it.  (I had ordered a second yard in the pine colorway, thinking I had ordered teal, and so was doubly frustrated with myself at that point). 

 
The customer service rep said they would refund the money but didn't want the fabric returned, which I feel funny about, but this company usually has you return stuff with a prepaid mailer, so I don't know.  Don't look free fabric in the face, I suppose.  I'll probably buy it again, now that I know this.  Maybe I'll use the other yard to toile some bralettes (another rabbit hole I never thought I'd dive down!)


The Telio is a slightly beefier knit than the green and yellow ones, but less thick than the French terry. It is a nice mid-weight knit with good stretch and recovery.  I think I like it even better than Kaufman's Laguna jersey, so that's saying something!   I'll admit, much of my sewing since May has been of the stress-sewing variety.  My weight has stayed fairly constant for the past year, but I discovered that about half my summer skirts don't fit comfortably around the waist for some reason, and one of them just looks sadder than sad.

These knit skirts are more forgiving and comfortable, and are a silhouette that feels more like "me" than the fuller summer skirts I wear to mark time until I can get back into my slim skirts for fall and winter.  I only wish this pattern had come out sooner!  

I'm struggling a bit with the ecology of my sewing this year, as with so many other things in the house.  I recently finished re-reading Slavenka Draculic's How We Survived Communism and Even Laughed and am now re-reading her Cafe Europa book. 

This is the yellow skirt with a shirt I recently altered.  My sister bought the shirt for me a few years ago (and matching ones for herself and my other sister) but I didn't like the red collar and cuffs, so I cut them off and hemmed down the edges.  I love it now and plan to wear it often!
 

Different things stand out to me on this reading, as opposed to my first reading about 15 years ago.  I keep thinking about the stuff they saved that most Westerners would throw out or recycle, like jars and cans, plastic bags, etc.  It reminded me of the economies when I lived in Russia--if you were lucky enough to find ziploc bags, you never ever threw one away!  Some dear friends moved back to the States while I was living in Moscow and I helped them pack.  She gave me her partial box of ziploc bags and I thought I'd won the lottery!  I still have a hard time knowing how to deal with ziplocs.  Sturdy plastic shopping bags with flat plastic handles doubled as handbags--the Marianna brand was particularly popular.  I was thrilled to find one at a kiosk for 5 rubles once.

But the same economies also reminded me of my grandmother, who survived the Great Depression and never threw away a bread bag or cottage cheese tub if she could use it for something else.  I come from thrifty Dutch stock, but somehow, I have lost touch with some of those things as galloping consumerism has taken over our world.  Sometimes I get so tired of the whole hamster wheel--buying and selling, commodification of everything, the whole world one big advertisement.  I don't like how my brain feels different.

Some of it is simple convenience.  It is a lot of work to keep this household running, and there are some things like frozen diced onions or pre-sliced frozen peppers that just make life easier for me.  And I remind myself that using large-scale delivery systems is more ecologically sound than driving all over the place to shop, so there's that.  It becomes a kind of economy of scale that works in dense urban settings. I'm trying to think about ways to repurpose things that we usually recycle, like food cans or jars.  I've been saving plastic tubs for a few months for various purposes, plus a few other things here and there.  Amazon boxes are useful for basement storage, and stack more conveniently than Rubbermaid tubs (although I do have some of those too, from years ago).

I used big yogurt tubs with holes punched in the bottom to start my bareroot strawberries, and used a big empty can from some freeze dried fruit to transplant a dwarf cypress tree from one of the big planters in the garden.  The reality is that we are a household of six in a dense urban setting, and while our trash and recycling output is low relative to smaller households, there are things we could do to consume less.  I'm still working out how to balance economy of both physical energy and resources against ecology, but I'm often annoyed that I can't do both together.  There is a finite amount of labor I can do in a day's time, but the meals and laundry never stop coming.  So some things have to be sacrificed.  

Anyway, just a yammer about stuff-ism.

In garden news, I moved the strawberry plants outside yesterday.  I had two that suddenly withered in the house, after starting strong, so I thought I'd better get the rest outside before I lost the lot.  They are in the green boxes in front of the big planters.  

A friend gave me a pair of blueberry bushes (so they can self-pollinate), which you can just see on the far right.  They are loaded with berries!  I'm waiting on a few more food plants to arrive, as well as some berry plant food, as my raspberries are looking a bit peaky.  I pinched off all the strawberry flowers while they were in the house, to encourage root and leaf production, but will now let them do their thing and see what we get.  I'm hoping they thrive!