I'm not a huge fan of fish. At least not the stinky whole-head variety. That said, I don't mind white fish like flounder or haddock or branzino, and my dad is an avid fisherman when he can get to a lake, so we sometimes had fresh water fish in the summer when I was a kid. I also grew up eating canned tuna in various forms (casserole, salad, etc) and really like that, but sadly developed an allergy as an adult and can no longer eat it. *sniff, sniff* I challenged it unsuccessfully with my allergist sometime in 2012, but perhaps I could try again in the next couple of years. When I lived in Russia, one of my favorite things to get at a kiosk for lunch was "
crabovie salat" (kрабовый cалат), which is fake crab legs (pollack, usually), white rice, mayo, corn, and pickles. I sometimes made it myself at home too. Delish!!
My tolerance for other fish has dropped along with my tuna allergy (no shrimp or tilapia, or pretty much any fish I haven't had prior experience with, because I'm careful), so my fish consumption has dropped and I've not had a crabovie salat for years. As a practical matter, that means fish days in our house are pretty much either breaded or battered frozen white fish in some form or another, or salmon.
Now, I like salmon a lot, but my kids do too, and fresh fillets make for an extravagantly expensive meal for our family. I do have a recipe for salmon patties that I've adapted into a hash for fish days that uses tinned, but that was the extent of my canned fish repertoire. And by the way, most of the tinned salmon I was able to find locally was also eye-wateringly expensive.
Until now!
The Apostles' Fast (which ends on Sunday) has a LOT of fish days. Like, a lot. This week alone there were four if you count Sunday. I've been experimenting with different Russian recipes for fasting times particularly, and decided to have a go at a few with fish this week. I was able to find tinned salmon in a 12-can flat for a really good price on amazon a few months ago and have been getting a flat every couple of months since my recipes tend to use several cans at a time. Everything I made this week went over reasonably well with my unpredictable eaters, and even my potato-hater loved the fish cakes (since I didn't tell her they had potatoes...sneaky, sneaky).
In the interest of sharing the wealth, I thought I'd share my "recipes" here. These are really just loose adaptations of other people's recipes, which are in turn adaptations of national cuisine that everyone's mother or grandmother had their own recipe for, so keep that in mind. The main thing to remember about Russian recipes is to use enough salt to flavor the dish (which I'm coming to understand is more than you think if you are mostly cooking from scratch) and to have a bit of sour in the mix, usually in the form of dill, but sometimes vinegar, pickles, or lemon juice.
Ukha (Yха)
Admittedly, this one is more like "shchi with salmon" (щи c лососем) but everyone liked it, and I'll take that.
Ingredients:
Mirepoix (or roughly 1 cup each onion, celery, and carrot, diced or grated)
2 cans salmon, well drained (add 1-2 more cans for additional heft); don't flake finely, leave it a bit chunky
10 oz. shredded cabbage (a bag of coleslaw mix works well for this)
8 cups no-chicken or vegetable broth (I like Better than Bouillon)
2 bay leaves
2 potatoes peeled and diced
ketchup or tomato paste
pepper
dill (fresh or dried)
olive oil or margarine
In a heavy bottomed pot like a Dutch oven, saute mirepoix in margarine or olive oil on medium low heat until sweating and softened, about 10-15 minutes. Add cabbage and stir to coat in oil, then add salmon, stock, bay leaves, and potatoes. Bring to a boil and then lower heat to a rolling simmer until potatoes are cooked, about 20 minutes. Squeeze a bit of ketchup or tomato paste (1-2 T.) over the top and stir through. Season with pepper and dill (I just sprinkle across the top of the pot, and then add dill to each bowl when served but your mileage may vary). If having dairy, a dollop of sour cream adds heft. Sprinkle with dill at table.
Fish Cakes
This is a mash-up of two recipes I found, and I only measured the salt and pepper, so I'm guessing a bit on the quantities of spice.
Ingredients:
2 potatoes, peeled, diced, and boiled until soft, then drained of water.
2 cans salmon, well drained and flaked into a bowl
1/3 cup bread crumbs
1/4-1/2 tsp dried dill (or 2x the amount fresh, chopped finely)
1/4 tsp dried mustard
1/4 tsp salt
1/8 tsp pepper
1/4-1/2 tsp onion powder
2 small shakes cayenne pepper (optional; my kids didn't love the spice, so I'll leave it out next time)
1 tsp (or so) lemon juice
Mash the potatoes with a fork and add to the salmon along with the spices and bread crumbs. The result should be fairly sticky and thick. Using a cookie scoop or two spoons, divide mixture into small balls (about 1/4 cup of mix), shape and flatten with your hands. In a heavy fry pan (cast iron is ideal) spray cooking oil and heat until oil sizzles with a flick of water (like for pancakes). Reduce heat to medium and place about six cakes in a pan (or five, however many fit with a bit of room around the edges) and cover for 3 minutes. Turn cakes over and cook covered for another 3 minutes. They should be golden brown. Turn onto a plate and then repeat until all patties are cooked. Serve with rice or grechka. For dairy eaters, they are very nice with a dollop of sour cream or a bit of mayo. Vegan mayo with dill added would also work.
Fish Pie--Kulebyaka (Кулебяка)
This dish has a lot of iterations, mostly based on the crust type--some people use puff pastry, some people use a short crust or pie crust, some people make pirog dough, similar to pizza dough. This iteration uses pie crust, but I will probably try it with pirog dough at some point too. It was a brilliant way to use up leftover grechka, but rice works too. I mostly used
this recipe as a guide (sans eggs), but Anya Von Bremzen's recipe in
Please to the Table was also helpful. It could benefit from a little bit of liquid binder to hold the contents together a bit better.
3 (ish) cups cooked rice or grechka
4 cans salmon, well drained
4 pie crusts (for pirog dough, use my
cabbage pirog recipe as a guide for use)
1 small can mushrooms, well drained (fresh work well too, just cook them until liquid comes out and is reabsorbed and they are browned
1 medium onion, loosely diced and cooked to deep brown in 3 T. olive oil or margarine, with a sprinkle of salt
generous sprinkle of dill, fresh or dried
lemon (maybe 1 tsp?)
more salt
Preheat to 400. After onion has cooked, add salmon and grechka and mushrooms and mix, adding lemon and dill and more salt to the mix. Divide the mixture between both pie crusts and pack tightly. Cover with pie crust and crimp edges and poke holes to allow steam to escape. Place pies on cookie sheets lined with parchment in case of drips. Bake for about 20 minutes or until crust is nicely browned. Cut and serve.
Makes two pies, about 16 small slices. There were two slices left after my family of six had finished.
And if you are thinking it looks like a lot of brown food, you would be correct! Because actually, most home cooking looks like that.
Cooking at home is a good thing, but it isn't always pretty or photograph-worthy.
Or especially fast. (This article made me feel so much better about my culinary efforts--I'm not a 12-person professional kitchen with a full-time staff working 12 hour shifts!) Annd while my photos are amateur (and always will be), even the best photographs cannot disguise that some of the best-tasting food, and the most nourishing, made at home, is not going to be especially visually appealing. Sometime I'll write a post on the history of pottage...