The knitting is just below the sewing if you are just here for fiber craft!
~sewing~
I have had an epic number of sewing fails lately. My
Carson dress turned out so badly I didn't even want to show it to you. (And so you get bathroom mirror pics). The things I do for sewing science.
I didn't even bother hemming it, it was just that bad. I could carry a child to term in this dress. The skirt just has so.much.volume! And the pockets are absurdly tiny. (And yes, I know the pockets were recently redrafted, but I was working off the original dress pattern and didn't realize how very tiny the originals were until I'd finished).
The bodice is a bit snug, and the arms are pretty fitted for a woven garment, but I was between sizes and went down a size, based on what others had written about the pattern. I still think it was the right call, as the next size (a medium) is 3" larger in the bodice and a huge amount bigger in the skirt. I also didn't like that there were no finished length measurements, so I had to do a bit of sewing math as I was cutting out to figure out how long to make the skirt. (It is too long).
I can cut it down for a dress for one of the girls, so at least it isn't a total waste. But still. I hate waste. Especially when it costs money.
I had another not-quite success of an Everyday skirt from a gifted fabric remnant. The fabric was so pretty--it looks like
gzhel pottery on a linen substrate--but I didn't really have enough for an Everyday skirt and tried to make it work anyway. The result isn't quite...right. I'm frustrated with the project so I don't want to fiddle with it right now, and it is a warm weather garment, so I put it in the bin to deal with another time.
I also remade the
stripey shirt into a dress for Birdie, and while it technically turned out wearable, it isn't the best looking thing I ever made. It is just okay. Not a stunning success.
I'm unhappy with my
Menagerie rayon dress and my
painted roses dress hack just didn't work. The painted roses dress fits really oddly now and is pretty uncomfortable. I think
taking up the hem on the Menagerie was a mistake (I can let it out easily enough) and I'm not sure I love the shape of the overall dress on me even though I love the print. The pockets are seriously wonky and I wish I had done inseam pockets (I could fix this, but I'm not sure I have enough fabric).
I also wrote that rayon makes me cold-sweat in cooler weather. Since it has been quite cold until the last two days (when it suddenly jumped to 80 degrees!) I've not wanted to wear any rayon. I had a revelation this week, however, (a real "duh" moment), which was: stop wearing rayon in cold weather, you dummy! Rayon is quite lovely in hot weather, as it skims the body and stays cool to the touch. Wrinkles fall out of it, and it feels really nice against the skin in heat. I think I was just stuck on how I wore my rayons last spring, and for whatever reason, I am feeling the cold much more this year. My husband keeps calling me a human popsicle. It is ridiculous. It is like my core is cold or something.
In the meantime, I have been stalking Instagram for the
Carson Dress (to figure out if it was going to work for me as a pattern or if I should try the
Fen or
Fringe dress instead as they are all similar) and noticed the
Art Gallery Kermes rayon challis. I instantly fell in love with this fabric (and several of the garments that were made from it), but at the price point, I wanted to make sure I had a pattern I loved to pair it with. My rayon adventures this spring have been...not great.
But I suddenly had a thought--and here's the part where I love a pattern to pieces and start to make it in all kinds of unsuitable fabric in an attempt to make it work for everything. *snort*
I wondered if my McCall's 7353 would work in rayon. I knew
Colette had made a Myrtle out of rayon, and I also knew that if the pattern had positive ease, it was a good candidate for making in woven. Rayon has a fair bit of mechanical stretch, which helps too. Based on my experience with the
spruce knit dress (a regular closet favorite at the moment), I knew the pattern did work in a fabric with less than ideal stretch.
I had some unloved rayon in my stash from last summer. It is from Cotton+Steel's Magic Forest collection, and I had bought it thinking I would love it, and then kind of fell out of love with it. I had four yards and was flummoxed how best to use it. I wanted to give it away, but had no takers. So there it sat. I thought it would be perfect for a test garment, as I had enough to recut things if I needed to.
And...success! I did have to recut the entire bodice once, but that was it (and used up almost the entire four yards on this dress because of it), but I'm pretty happy with the result both in looks and fit. I've been wanting more 3/4 sleeve options in my warm weather closet, since I burn so badly (even through clothing sometimes!) and I'm at high risk for skin cancer. But it is hard to find the right fabric for such a venture since we don't have central AC. Rayon is just right because it is light, airy, and doesn't cling.
I made the following alterations to make the pattern work for a woven:
1. I added 1/2" to all seam allowances on the front bodice pattern (the arms are much narrower on the front than the back). This includes the bottom bodice, as I wanted to lower the bust line a tad.
2. I added 1/2" to the bottom of the back bodice to match the front. When I put these together, I ended up with a triangle on each corner that was an inch longer than the front, and my brain can't figure out why. I trimmed the excess and it worked out, but I'm still puzzling that one.
3. I added 2.5" to the skirt length (my usual addition)
4. I turned the waist casing down toward the skirt because of a sewing error. It worked largely because this is rayon. In a bulkier fabric, I would have had to unpick a bunch of stitches and turn it up. I used seam binding to finish the edge neatly since rayon frays. I also used the 5/8" fold over elastic in the casing since I like the way it feels around my middle.
5. This rayon is only 45" wide (unlike most, which are 54-57" wide) so I had to piece the sleeves. I cut to the elbow sleeve length, and then cut out the pattern piece from the elbow line to the cuff. I sewed them with 1/4" seam allowance and zig-zagged the edges (I zig-zagged all the seam allowances).
6. I sewed the dress seams at 3/8" (the pattern calls for 5/8") and graded out to 5/8" at the waist on the bodice to make the skirt match up with the bodice.
I'm going to try this with the Kermes. I may even remake the painted roses or menagerie dresses next year. Watch this space!
~knitting~
I realized I'm knitting all green things!
I started the
Rivel cardigan in Lost Lake Heather Swish (that gorgeous complex olive color I wrote about in my
Sherwood Cowl). I am finding it to be a pretty satisfying knit. I've been wanting to move away from raglan sleeves, since I'm not super happy with how they fit me, so I specifically looked for a pattern with set in sleeves.
At least one knitter made this by knitting the sleeves down from the cap in short rows, and I have a book on how to do it, so I'll probably try it. I was worried about keeping up with the cables, but it is a four row cable pattern and pretty easy to read as I go along.
I'm also working on another simple cowl to go with the Triangle dress. It is a single skein of Rowan wool I had in my bin from a clearance sale somewhere. The color is actually quite variegated, but it is hard to see unless you look closely.
This is my Jade Calligraphy cardigan, but I'm seriously considering frogging it for a Rivel if that cardigan turns out well. So I'm not working on this much right now while I consider options.
~reading~
I just started Marilynne Robinson's Lila at the good advice of a friend familiar with my novel. My friend suggested it might prove useful. So far it is a great read, and almost makes me despair at ever attaining Robinson's craft mastery. Almost.
I'm also still reading Rodney Stark's Rise of Christianity and highly recommend it.
~watching~
I have a draft post going on what I've watched in the past five months or so, but for now, I'll just say I'm watching McMafia with the always wonderful James Norton. There are some issues with the production, but overall, I'm engaged and interested in the story. I do think it is trying just a leetle bit too hard to be The Night Manager, though.
~listening~
I've been listening to Home Free's
Timeless album all week--so good! Can't stop, won't stop. I also listened to the
Vocapeople's Life is Music when I wanted some variety. Their album is a hilarious musical odyssey through a bunch of different eras. Oh, and a bit of
Cowboy Junkies and Wailin' Jennys. But you already knew that.
Fretless is good too.
That's all for me! Whew! You made it all the way through. Go have a chocolate and a nap. 😂