My first Historical Sew Monthly post! I didn't think I was going to be able to meet the challenge this month--I had planned to make something else, but things went awry earlier in the month and I just haven't had the time or energy to fix it properly. I'm also reconsidering my focus for these challenges; as much I love the mid-18th century, it is a little hard to pull it off in daily life without looking costume-y and I don't really want to sew a bunch of stuff I can't wear regularly. Going forward, my sewing plans are mostly for early 20th century garments.
That said, I figured I was out for January's challenge. Then I read Leimomi's post about the theme, and I remembered the petticoat skirt I made in mid-December, and realized it was a perfect entry. It isn't a foundation garment, but it does form the foundation of the outfit I've put together. It is a modern mix--the jacket is from eshakti.com, and the off-white shirt is from Old Navy, but the stays are period appropriate, as is the skirt. (A note about the stays--they are surprisingly wearable! I wanted to try them to help my posture a bit and I'm surprised at how easy they are to put on and to wear. I like the front-laced look, but back lacing is more comfortable overall)
Petticoat skirts are so clever--in the days before zipper and press stud closures, garments had to be laced, buttoned, or pinned shut with straight pins. In addition, common garments had to be easily sewn, since nearly everything was sewn by hand in the home. Petticoat skirts are basically two rectangles of material, used selvage to selvage, and hemmed up the side, leaving the top 9" open for pocket access.
Pockets were worn separately underneath. The bottom was hemmed to length (although often it was hemmed to length at the top, rather than the bottom as I've done). The material was pleated to linen tapes, which were used to wrap around the body to secure the skirt. The tapes and side openings made the skirt extremely adjustable; in a time when women spent much of their lives pregnant or recovering from pregnancy, this is an important feature.
Petticoat skirts were made of lots of different types of materials, including linen, wool, quilted cotton, or silk. Until the late 18th century, however, linen and wool were most common. They were quilted and/or layered for additional warmth during colder months. During the 18th century, pocket hoops and a bum roll were often worn underneath to pad out the sides and back. I have enough padding without them, however!
My version is made from 100% cotton Shetland flannel since wool is a bit beyond my budget for this sort of thing. I used premade polyester bias tape instead of linen for the same reason. I sewed the whole skirt by machine instead of by hand because I wanted a quick and easy project, and, as this is just for my own amusement, I'm not so concerned about 100% historical accuracy.
The Challenge: Foundation
Fabric: 2 yards Robert Kaufman Shetland Flannel in Basil
Pattern: self-draped from Koshka the Cat's tutorial (she has a good picture of how they look as one is putting them on, which I found useful to visualize during the planning stages)
Year: 1740s/1750s
Notions: Wrights Bias tape (2 packages)
How historically accurate is it? 5/10--I used modern construction techniques and materials, and my fabric wouldn't be accurate for the period--cotton was very expensive until the late 18th century. It is a garment that would be recognizable to an 18th century person, however.
Hours to complete: about 2
First worn: January 2015
Total cost: about $20 for the fabric, thread, and bias tape
*The white stuff on my skirt is snow; we were supposed to have some big snowpocalypse, but it turned out to be just a nice dusting. I brushed against some cars as I was taking these photos and got snowy in the process.

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