Frankenpatterning again

This dress was quite an experiment and mash up of patterns.  After my Indigo dress, I wondered if I could get a slightly better fit in the bodice by using my Emery block and omitting the waist darts.  I also thought that the shoulders on the Washi bodice were slightly too wide for me, and wanted them cut in slightly so that the cap sleeve is a bit shorter over my upper arm.  I like the way the sleeve cap looks more geometrical on Rae's cover version, and I think she has wider shoulders than me, so it would make sense to cut the shoulders in a bit to achieve that.

 

I ended up blending the Washi bodice and the Emery bodice in some possibly strange ways, but it resulted in a bodice that was easier to fit onto the bottom skirt (from the M7353, to which I added 1/4" of ease at the hips on the back piece only, to give myself a bit more room and get rid of the fabric pool that happens on almost every iteration of this skirt pattern.  I also shorted it at the top by 2 1/4" so that I could put a less deep hem on it.

So what I did was this: I took my Emery front bodice and compared the width of the bottom to the width of the skirt, and they matched exactly.  Then I matched the shoulders and armscye to make sure they were compatible (they were a close match, but I narrowed the shoulder width about 1/4" to match the medium size on the Washi (I've previously been cutting it at a large).  I also cut the neckline to match the Washi, instead of the higher boatneck of the Emery.

The back bodice was a bit more gnarly, because it is drafted for neck darts and waist darts, and also mean to have a center back zip.  Omitting the zip wasn't a problem, and the bottom width was correct without the waist darts, but the neck darts were a bit problematic.  I was concerned that my head wasn't going to fit through the top unless I got rid of the darts, but to do that, I had to do a bit of fancy folding.  As it turns out, I probably could have kept the darts (I just remembered that my original Frankenpattern dress used this bodice block with a side zip, which means I was always pulling through dresses over my head and never had a problem).  I laid the Washi back bodice over the Emery and folded to match the tops and armscyes.  Probably a bit fly-by-night, but it got the job done.  

I put the whole thing together, tried it on...whomp, whomp, whomp.  Not good.  The whole bodice was a size or two too big, and the waist drooped badly.  It was also a touch long in the waist, so I pulled out the elastic, redid the waist casing so that the waist seam pointed up instead of down (also reduced a lot of bulk on that seam by doing so) and then rethreaded the elastic with 2" less length.  I could have stood to lose another inch, maybe, or raise the waist line another 1/2".  I ended up hemming at 2 1/2" (and probably could have gone 3 1/2"), so I don't know why taking off the extra length that the top of the pattern piece didn't work. The Emery bodice is slightly longer than the Washi (I always add 1/2-1" to the bottom when I make it) but it isn't that much longer. 

The resulting dress is just okay.  It is still too long in the waist and a touch too long in the skirt, and it feels a bit precious to me.  I also don't love the way that the armscye edges rub against my underarm.  I don't know why, since the bodice is actually too big, whereas the others it is very fitted around the bust and arms.  I sort of have this problem with all these dresses, but I felt better about wearing the others, so it didn't bother me as much, but the chafing combined with not loving the fit really doesn't help the case.  I suppose I could take it apart again, shorten the waist and re-hem it, but I don't have that in me just this minute.  I'll probably get to it another time. 

I'm not sure I would do this again, because I think the bodice is too blousy for my taste.  The Indigo version has some fit issues too, and was harder to blend and make work, so maybe this little experiment just needs to end.  I think what I'd really like is something without a defined waist in the front but ties in the back to cinch things in a bit. 

It took me more than a week to wear it, and I really would rather be wearing something else except the humidity is stupidly high again and my closet is lean.  (I'm in the process of trying to switch to natural deodorant--more on that later--and I am sweating through clothing at an alarming rate.  I can hardly keep up with the wash.  I'd quit the experiment all together, but traditional deo/antiperspirant isn't working at all for me any more, so I figure this can't be worse.  Except it kind of is).  Anyway. All the fun hormonal stuff when you turn 40.  Yes, I will take some cheese with my whine, thankyouverymuch.

Off to sew a shapeless green linen dress with sleeves and side ties.  Here's hoping I like the result.

Emerald and Brussels Indigo Part II

I have a fix and a fail to share today.  The fail is the Made By Rae Emerald dress, from the Making Magazine #7.   I don't think the problem is down to the pattern--it is cute and well drafted.  I think I made a combination of strategic mistakes in fabric choice, cutting on the bias as instructed, and possibly choosing the wrong size.

So let's break it down.  First is fabric choice.  I've had this fabric in my stash probably the longest of anything currently in my bin.  I don't really have a stash per se, just a couple dress lengths of fabric that were bought for specific projects and scraps from other projects.  

So when I want to test a pattern, I either have to buy fabric for it, or make do with scraps from the bin.  Anyway.  I had five yards of this vintage rayon that was a scant 36" wide.  I had prewashed it at some point, and then didn't know what to do with it, because it was so thin, and it felt "precious" because it was vintage.  Pfft to that.  I'm tired of not using stuff because it is precious, and to be honest, I wasn't sure that the colorway was going to suit me anyway.  I tend to do better in cool-toned fabric, and this definitely is a warm color.

Second is cutting on the bias.  The pattern is drafted to be cut on the bias and seamed down the center, which is how I cut it.  The problem is two fold.  Because I used 36" wide fabric, I couldn't quite cut it on a true diagonal, and the fabric was so shifty that the second layer moved around a lot when I was cutting.  I even used straight scissors for cutting to make sure the fabric stayed straight, but it still happened.  I also realized after I had finished the dress and put it on that bias cut anything just doesn't look good on me.  My hips are quite round, and there is an indent where they come in toward my legs, which a bias cut bottom completely accentuates in a non-flattering way.  

This is where the third issue comes in.  I'm between sizes on Rae's chart for this dress--the S/M and L/XL sizes.  I knew from the finished measurements that I definitely needed a S/M on top, but I wasn't sure if I needed the extra ease on the bottom.  I measured another dress I like the fit of on the bottom and it was 46" at the widest point, and this dress was supposed to be a finished 48" hip in the S/M, so I decided to make a straight S/M instead of grading at the waist and hip to a L/XL.  For reference, my high bust is 35", full bust is 37", waist is 34-35" depending, hips are 45".  (And yes, I know, I'm up a bunch of inches from last year.  That 10 pounds had to go somewhere.  I'm working on it).

Here's what I like about the pattern.  I love the facings on the neckline and sleeves--I know, shocker right?  I'm always the girl who is converting facings to bias binding, but I decided to make this as close to drafted as possible, just to see how I liked it.  Because the facings are all topstitched down, they stay put and are a nice design feature.  I love the shape of the neckline--that soft v-neck is really nice.  

What I don't like: unfortunately, the pockets make the dress gape weirdly at the hips, so I had to cut them out, but I still don't like the fit because of the bias cut.  The dress was a pain to sew because the fabric kept wanting to warp along the bias, even with stay-stitching, and the hem facing was a total disaster.  I cut it off and put on bias tape instead. I don't think the 42" length was flattering on me, but cutting it 2" shorter (as I did when I cut off the hem facing) didn't really look better either.   So I think someone else can enjoy this dress who has a straighter figure than me.

I'm undecided about making it again and cutting it on the straight grain instead, which I think would fix a lot of problems.  I'd definitely grade out the hips, and maybe shorten the shoulder seam allowance slightly.  I cut a blouse version of this from a scrap of rayon challis I had to muslin it for fit.  I cut it on the straight grain, and took out the center seam and a lot of the extra ease (about 1 1/4" on the front and back) and I really like the look of it as a blouse. Trust me that it looks better on than flat.

 And finally, I fixed some things on my Brussels Indigo dress, and I'm happier with the bodice fit now.  I tapered the side seams from the waist to the underarm from 3/8"-1/2" and like that very well.  I also took up another inch in the hem, for a total of 3 1/4".  I could probably stand to lose another 1/2" on the hem, but I'm leaving it for now. 

I can't really raise the bust darts without major structural work, but I think they can pass as faux French darts for now.  Now to decide what to do with the purple Brussels linen I bought.  Should I make another M7353/Washi mashup or have another go at a straight grain Emerald?  Decisions, decisions. 

Maudie Skirt and Night Owl Dress

Fresh off my sewing machine:

A denim skirt!  I've had in mind to remake my Zwei Leben denim skirt for at about two years, since I shrunk out of the last one, but have dithered about actually doing it because it is a pain to fit and I worried about my rapidly changing shape.

But last week I decided enough, and pulled the fabric out of my stash to make it up already.  I'd rebought the same denim shortly after the original skirt since the price was good and I wanted to be sure I'd have replacement fabric ready!  I do think this might be slightly different, as it has a bit of stretch, whereas the original denim did not.

That said, I'm pleased as punch with this skirt--it fills a huge hole in my closet, and I now feel confident about my redrafted Anne Adams 9481 pattern.  I still love my Everyday skirt, but it doesn't work well with heavier fabrics, and I do like separates in winter.

I ended up with 7/8" side seam allowances, and 5/8" on the back seam, plus I added an extra set of 1/2" darts to the back to get a snug fit around the waist.  I also put a 3 1/4" hem on it, so I might shorten the pattern in the future.  Although, I kind of like the deep hem with the gold top stitching--it looks somehow dressier than a standard 1/2" hem.

I put this outfit together yesterday to photograph the cowl and skirt in one go, and I love the combination!  I will definitely be wearing this one again.  I think the Garnet Boneyard shawl from yesterday would also go quite well with this.

A completely successful make, in my opinion.  I feel great in this skirt.

Next up: a successful Franken-Washi!  

This is the Night Owl dress,  and it is the Washi Dress put together with the M7353 bodice.  After my first attempt, I made a few more tweaks to the bodice.  I went back to my original mods to the M7353 in woven, and that was the ticket.  The fit is good, the dress is comfortable and cozy but I still feel like I got dressed in the morning.  Win-win.

The dress is really for my winter rotation, so I just put it on to photograph, but I'm looking forward to wearing it next month.  With the Rusty Ribbons shawl, natch.

I have another cowl that is a bit more peach that I think would also match.

The fabric is brushed cotton from Cotton+Steel, and I lurve it.  I have another length in a different print that I want to make up for Christmas.  I'm a bit nervous about it, though, as my track record with holiday dresses is less than stellar. 

I suppose I just need to get it done before the madness starts (hence making this version in October to get the fit right!)

For the record, my bodice mods are: 1/2" to top and bottom sleeve seams, tapering to nothing at the curve of the underarm, and adding 1/2" to the bodice front bottom.  Since the back is all cut in one on the Washi, I just laid the back bodice piece over the top and lined up the bottom edge with the taped join on the Washi.  I had to piece the sleeves at the bottom, but that was easy enough.  I added 1" of length to the skirt, which is about right for my current tastes.

~watching~

Ethan Hawke and Sally Hawkins may have given the performances of their careers in this delightfully subtle and nuanced film.  I loved it, and highly recommend it.  I watched it while making the denim skirt yesterday, hence the title.

I finally finished this Russian series about the Soviet Sophia Loren.  The show is loosely based on her life, and while it took me a little while to get into the story, once I was hooked, I couldn't stop watching it.  Her life is kind of a train wreck, and you feel bad for all the poor choices she makes in the given circumstances.  I thought the last episode in particular quite poignant.  It's all very Russian.  Excellent show.

I've been waiting for this show to hit the States since the winter, as I follow Richard Madden on Instagram and saw his posts about filming this show.  Kudos to Keely Hawes and Richard Madden for great performances!  The writing is superb, and I was guessing about the story from start to finish.  Lots of interesting (and unexpected) plot twists.

This is a wonderful film!  I loved Sanaa Lathan in Something New, and if you liked that film, you'll like this one too.  It is about a woman's journey to self-acceptance, and it is brilliant and body positive and I loved it so much.

I expected to adore this film, but I merely liked it.  I enjoyed the Downton Abbey cast reunion (of sorts) and I liked the story, but I wasn't wowed.  I thought Lily James' character wasn't fleshed out quite enough, and I didn't like the guy she was supposed to be in love with for most of the film.  The supporting actors were great (Penelope Wilton will break your heart), and I especially enjoyed Matthew Goode's performance as her publisher.

I finished, I finished, I finished!  The final season of The Americans was tense, well-written, and the ending extremely satisfying.  I was guessing about the ending until the very last second.  I won't ruin it for anyone who hasn't seen it yet, but wow.  It is great.  I'd like to discuss with someone who has seen it!

I thoroughly enjoyed this reboot, and thought the updates to the story were brilliant.  Who knew John Krasinski could be an action hero?  He gives a wonderful performance here, and I loved his subtle nods to Harrison Ford's portrayal of the character.  Wendell Pierce is a great James Greer--I enjoyed him a lot.  The writing is excellent, and I'm hoping they'll do another season.

In the meantime, Droughtlander is over!  So you'll find me in North Carolina with the Frasers for the next month or so. Ha!

Breakin' Up is Hard to Do

Dear Plaid Flannel,

I know you wanted to get back together.  

I tried, I really did.  

But I really think it just isn't going to work out.  

xoxo

I ended up fixing the fit on the plaid flannel Frankenwashi today.  I'm glad I did it, because the fixes were relatively easy, and I did think, briefly, that they might have saved the dress.

Actually, I think they *did* save the dress, but I'm still not sure I want to wear it.  For the record, my alterations were: cinch in the back elastic about 1.5", take in the underarm seam of the sleeves about 1/4" (tapered out a bit more at the wrist), and bring up the hem 2".  

Nothing especially time consuming, and it does look pretty good with my L'Enveloppe from last year (which warms up the dress considerably as well).  Still pretty thin flannel, though.  The drape on the skirt isn't fabulous--I think this is probably shirting flannel, which would account for some of the problems I've had with it.

I look at the pics of the dress without anything over the top, and I'm like: meh.  Not so much.  (I'm wearing gauntlets that are really Birdie's legwarmers; I made them for her last year.  I'd probably wear my lava heather ones with this dress in the future).  That's actually one of my issues with this dress: I don't really have the right cardigan to wear over the top and I still think that the plaid is too much near my face.  I do, however, have a cream cotton pullover in my winter bin that might work.  Decisions, decisions.

It's not frumpy like it was, but it's not fabulous either.  But! I now think that the Frankenwashi might be a better choice for my printed flannels, because I do really like having the longer sleeves under a cardigan.  I suppose the question is: if I wear the other flannel dresses all winter with a cardigan over the top, does it matter what is under it?  I don't know.

Well, things to ponder.  In the meantime, I might throw this dress into my fall rotation...or I might not.

Oh, plaid flannel.  How I wanted this to work.

Update: I put a long sleeve shirt underneath and wore it out to get the kids from school and I think I like it!  Jury's still out, though.  Ask me again in December.

Dear Plaid Flannel...

Dear Plaid Flannel,

We need to break up.  We've had a good run, but it's over.  

It's not you, it's me.

xoxo

Sometimes a Frankenpattern works, sometimes it doesn't.  In point of fact, the actual Frankenpattern *did* work, it just doesn't look good on me.  Win some, lose some.

So, details: in late summer, I bought some very cheap plaid flannel from fabric.com with some slight misgivings, my previous experience with cheap plaid flannel being rather disastrous.  When it arrived, I was cautiously optimistic.  It washed well, seemed to hold its grain after, and I thought might actually work for the dress I intended, which was a woven M7353.

I set those plans aside when I attempted to make a different plaid flannel garment and had serious issues with keeping the fabric on grain.  In short, it was so difficult, I had to abandon the project before I even really got it entirely cut out.  I still don't really understand it--it was Kaufman Mammoth flannel, and I've never had much trouble with it before, and I was reusing from an earlier garment that I'd matched all along the side seams.  Humph.  

I also made an Everyday skirt out of some Kaufman Durango flannel (a checked plaid) that just didn't turn out.  I mean, it is finished, and the plaid matches, but the skirt looks really bad on me.  Really, really bad.  Not sure if it is the plaid, the heavy weight flannel, the colors in the flannel or what, but it was a complete disaster.

After all that, I wasn't in the mood to match plaid any time soon.

After my Washi successes, however, I wondered about putting the M7353 bodice on the Washi skirt, since I really liked how the skirt fit, and I like how the fitted dolman sleeves on the M7353 look.  I couldn't get the idea out of my head.  I figured since the dress had longer sleeve options, it had a reasonable chance of looking okay.

The combination also seemed like a great winter combination that could be warmed up further with additional layers.  I have some non-plaid flannel that I want to make a Christmas dress out of (I know, I know), but I didn't want to try a new frankenpattern on the good stuff, so I decided to start with the cheap plaid I bought in the late summer and set aside.  The colors of my plaid are lovely (a deep claret red, yellow, spruce green, and black), but as I began to work with it, I realized that it was very thin.  Very very thin.  Stark contrast to my snuggly Mammoth flannel.

I cut everything out flat, while watching the BBC Pride and Prejudice.  It was a good sewing companion that day.  I felt good about how the plaid matching was going, and was feeling a bit confident that I might even get a wearable dress in the end--for the win!

Except.  I had graded up the sleeves on the bodice another 1/4" from my usual woven adjustments, and I think that was mistake number one.  Mistake number too was making the back elastic a bit looser than on my previous Washi dresses (5" shorter than the back width instead of 6").  Mistake number three was the skirt length, which looked decidedly frumpy in this fabric.  

These are all things I can theoretically change--I could take in the sleeve seams, cinch in the elastic, take up the hem, etc.  But the other two problems are a bit more intractable.  Number one is that the flannel is really too thin to be useful on its own in cold weather, and that was the whole point of this dress.  Number two is that the color combination looks really really bad with my skin tone.  For some reason it reads brown on me, and brown is generally a bad idea.  So I'm not sure it is worth trying to fix any thing on this dress, given that.  I know, I could add layers, put my burgundy L'Enveloppe over it, add a cowl, break up the plaid near my face, yadda, yadda, but that starts to get fussy.

In truth, I haven't decided what to do yet.  I was so appalled by how bad it looked on me, I took it off immediately and put it out of sight.  I think this is one piece that Stasia would say: let it go.  But maybe I'll try it on again in a few weeks and reevaluate.  In any case, I couldn't bear to take photos in it, so hanger photos it is.

In the meantime, I wanted to document my mad plaid matching skillz (*snort*), particularly in this fabric, which was SUPER hard to work with.  I don't recall working with a harder fabric than this, and that includes rayon bemberg.  It went off grain constantly, the plaid lines weren't really completely straight, so matching was very difficult.  

Still, it was a good experiment: a chance to try something new and do something hard, and I'm glad I tried it. I think I'll just make a regular Washi in the "good" flannel.  (The "good" stuff has a washi tape design and there is something in me that gets a kick out of the idea of making a Washi washi dress).