At the risk of inviting close scrutiny of my chest as well as a cascade of TMI, I think it time to talk about that which most women cannot do without in the modern era: the brassiere.
In 2016, I made a shift and stays. The stays were an interesting foray into historical undergarments, and while I learned a lot of new-to-me construction techniques, I also learned a lot about historical visual cultural norms and how undergarments are used to conform to them (or not).
Two summers ago, I started making my own underwear. Admittedly, it started in a fit of rage sewing, but I've never regretted the journey, and am completely happy with that part of my wardrobe. It is amazing to me how much things like well-fitting underwear and bras can make a difference to one's days.
Around the same time, I started thinking about bra making, as it seems that a lot of sewists get around to making them sooner or later, and RTW bras give me fits. I've never really had one that fit well, and as I've gotten older, the problems just multiply.
For a bit of TMI, here's part of the issue. Almost every bra on the market is
sloped from a single model from the 1970s who had high perky breasts
that were a full C-cup. Anyone whose anatomy differs from that (which
is like, almost everyone) is going to have a hard time finding a
good-fitting bra without selling a kidney to afford it. Then there is the issue of bra-fitters who try to sell you bras that don't, you know, fit. I've been fitted several times in nicer bra shops, and never once walked out with a bra that fit really well.
After nursing four babies, I have deflated water balloons, droopy hound dog ears, call it what you
want, but I've never been perky, nor have I ever been a C-cup except while
nursing. I'm between an A and a B cup, but I've never yet met an A or B cup that fit me right. I
usually end up in a 36B to split the difference but it's still not
great. It's almost impossible to find a 36A or 38A. I also can't stand underwires because most of them don't fit me
right or dig into the tissue at the sides such that I end up with hormone issues from the pressure. I've been doing research on bra construction and fitting, and it
was interesting to read that wires can come in different shapes and widths. I have damage on one side of my right breast from a massive infection that was improperly treated when Piglet was newborn and it still bothers me at times.
Last summer, I tried a Pepper bra. It was more expensive than my usual, but I figured if it fit, it would be worth it. The company specializes in smaller cup sizes relative to band width, and while it fit pretty well, I wouldn't say it is the best thing I ever wore. They do carry that rare beast, the 38A bra, with an A cup that is actually an A, so the fit is better than many. I took the underwires out, which helped a lot. But the whole thing is synthetic, which is not ideal in our summer climate.
For the past two years or so, I've been wearing Kalon bralettes, which are...okay, but are made of nylon so they don't wear well. The foam pads inside get funny with washing and the overall shape isn't super wonderful. They aren't very cool in the heat/humidity. Before the Kalons, there was a long procession of ill-fitting wired and wireless jobbies. (I had a couple wired ones that actually squeaked with movement. Just, no.) The Kalons like the best bad option at this point. I'm constantly adjusting the dumb things. In my opinion, like underwear, a good bra shouldn't remind me of its existence.
So I'm trying a bunch of different ready-to-wears to see what will give a better silhouette but not drive me bananas. I'm experimenting with smaller bands with larger cups (like 32 D or 34 C). For reference, my underbust is 33, full bust is 37.5 and upper bust 35.5. Going by "standard" bra sizing, I should fit a 36B just fine (it doesn't) but a 32D might also work. I'm skeptical, but keeping an open mind.
I also made a Jordy bralette using a kit from Emerald Erin. She has an etsy shop and an independent website with the same offerings. I am totally impressed with her patterns and great customer service! I wanted something that was mostly natural fibers in the cups, and had a less structured fit given my underwire woes. Making it was an interesting experience, and a lot easier than I expected. I used some leftover Laguna jersey and thin cotton batting, although I might try a thin bra foam on a future iteration.
I don't have the fit right yet--I need to adjust the sides of the cups so they don't gape and shorten the band-- but it is very comfortable and was a good entrée into bra-making. I have findings for two more, so I can tweak the fit some too. There are so many pattern options out there, it is hard to choose, but I'm looking at some kits on etsy since buying ala carte is overwhelming to me right now. The Cloth Habit has a lot of great information about bra construction and fitting and I've learned a lot from reading her blog posts.
