That 1940s dress

This dress was hard to photograph because it is so light, but I really like it.  The fabric print has a 1930s/1940s feel to it, and the lightness of the lawn makes it an ideal summer dress.  I could easily imagine this dress on a WWII-era housewife.  

The fabric is from Moda, a company I've not really bought from before, but I will be looking at again.  The fabric was really lovely to work with, even nicer to wear, and I really like the vintage vibe of their prints. 

Not much to say about construction, as this is just like everything else I've made lately.  I've discovered that a good back elastic length is 6"; I've noticed that almost all my dresses that survived last summer need to be snugged up several inches in the back, so it is good to have that as a guide.

I thought patch pockets went better with the 1940s feel of the print.  I could easily imagine this on a feedsack.

My happy face at a successful dress project.  

And Keds again.  

A happy late addition to the summer rotation!  (This might even work in my spring rotation; it has layering possiblities and I always like to have a lawn dress or two in my spring).  I'm to the point of feeling pretty happy with my rotation this year.  I'm really not wearing my separates much, but I'm okay with that, I think.  To everything a season.  I have enough dresses for variety and I don't have to think much about getting dressed in the morning, which is a plus at this stage of my life.

HSM #12: Redo (Brown)

I kind of fell off the Historical Sew Monthly wagon there for a few months.  It was sort of on purpose, as I didn't really have any projects in October that were appropriate, and my Silver Screen project just wasn't going to get done during November with everything that is going on.  I'm probably never going to finish it, actually.  That's okay.  This year has been instructive as to what is practical for me as far as sewing time is concerned, and I'm learning to be more focused about sewing purchases and projects.

That said, this dress was pure frivolity.  I bought the fabric way back in April, intending to make a 1930s dress with it for the brown challenge in September. (It is hard to tell in the photos, but the predominant color in the print is brown).  I wanted to copy Jill's original 1930s dress in this fabric with a contrasting green collar.  I had sketched the collar shape a few times, and thought I could swing it.  I thought the fabric read Art Deco, and I really liked the fall palette.  After making the 1934 McCall's 8272, I was pretty confident about how to draft and construct the collar detail, and I knew I could use my Frankenpattern to get the basic shape of the original.

In the intervening months, however, I sort of fell out of love with the fabric, and lost interest in the project.  I was concerned that the colorway didn't work for my complexion, and didn't want to spend time or precious energy on a project that wouldn't look good on me.  I was sorting out my fabric bin earlier this month, and ran across the fabric again, and decided to put it in a donation pile.  I resolved to let it go, but decided at the last minute to just make it up already.  

I regretted the decision almost the instant I made it, and spent a day or two trying to talk myself out of it, and second-guessed every minute of the making.  I thought my drafted collar looked wrong, I didn't like the contrast, I thought the tab detail on the pockets was overkill, I didn't want to top stitch anything, I didn't like the fabric, I couldn't believe I was "wasting" a morning that I actually felt okay on a dress to wear for Thanksgiving when I could be working on the projects in my winter sewing pile.

Sometimes you just have to plough through to the end.  I'm actually glad I finished this dress!  It was exactly the right thing to wear for Thanksgiving day, and I'm actually really happy with the end result.  It isn't an exact copy of the original, but it definitely works for the era.  The vintage buttons came from the McCall's 8272, which I took apart at the end of the summer.  It wasn't really a great dress for me for a variety of reasons, and I couldn't see that I would wear it again next year.  The fabric wasn't very breathable, and I wasn't happy with the way it was wearing after only a couple wears.  But the buttons were fabulous, so I saved those!!  

I drafted the collar on the fly, and then just attached it like a flat collar after top stitching it down.  It was very easy to construct, actually.  I probably could have stood to make the sleeve cuffs wider to match the width of the collar, but by the time I realized my mistake, I had been fighting with the cuffs for a while and was about ready to chuck them all together.  The pocket tabs were easy-peasy and while they didn't feature on the original dress, I've seen the detail on enough period patterns and extant dresses to feel confident that they would fit.

Because my energy levels have been extremely bad these last months, I confess that I ran out of steam when it came time to make the self-belt.  I had it all cut out, but then I just.couldn't.do it.  I ran a bit of elastic through the waist casing and called it a day.  It's not really period appropriate, but it was very comfortable.  And the dress is just for me anyway, so I'm not super concerned.

I also made a pair of coordinating gauntlets out of some copper colored Swish yarn.  They warmed things up considerably!  (The gauntlets are just a general item in my wardrobe--I didn't make them specifically for this dress, it was a happy coincidence)

I used the same waffle stitch pattern I used last winter on the lava gauntlets, but made them a bit longer, and added some stitches to the end to make them wider at the elbow end and narrower toward the wrist.  I also seamed them to leave a thumb hole, which I like quite a bit.

I'm pretty happy with my top-stitching on this project--it's not perfect, but I get a little better on each try!

The contrasting fabric is from Michael Miller and makes me think I might use some more in a different color way to make a solid colored dress at some point--it is very nice soft fabric.

I like this mitt pattern because it has just enough going on to keep the knitting interesting, but not so much that I can't have my mind on a program or something else at the same time.  And I adore Swish yarn!  I think it is my favorite yarn so far.

The seam is a lot better looking in person than on this photo--it is quite straight and neat.

And my boots are all wrong for a period photo (as is my hair) but as I said: poor energy, and it was Thanksgiving, after all!

The Challenge: Redo (Brown)

Fabric: Molly B 1800s Fabric in Harvest Stripe (100% cotton broadcloth), Michael Miller cotton broadcloth

Pattern: self-drafted/Frankenpatterned

Year: ~1934

Notions: bias tape, all purpose zip, vintage resin buttons, thread

How historically accurate is it? 6/10.  The basic shape is good, and a reasonable facsimile of the original dress, but the zip is wrong for the period (zips were in use, but not commonly available to home sewers until later).  Press studs or buttons would have been better for a side closure.  The bias tape I used is modern, although the usage is period (although, probably for a dress like this, it would have had proper facings).  The 100% cotton fabric is reasonable, as is the print.  The original dress had a gored skirt, but I prefer a simpler cut.  It's not wrong for the period, but gores would have given it a more period look.  The cut-on sleeves are period appropriate, but the original dress had set-in sleeves.  The elasticized waist is wrong.  I went for cut-on because I strongly dislike how inset sleeves fit me on woven fabrics.  I should have gone with the fabric self-belt and in-set sleeves for better accuracy, but I was going for comfort and wearability over strict period accuracy.

Hours to complete: 4-5.  The collar and cuffs added a lot of extra time.

First worn: November 26, 2015 for Thanksgiving Day

Total cost: ~$40

Water to Wine

It is cold and rainy today, so getting photos this morning was a bit of a job.  Apologies in advance for poor quality!  Also: I took these after school drop off, so I'm a bit rumpled from being in the car and having children climbing all over me this morning.

This is the second blouse and skirt I made last weekend (although, I made both before the blouse and skirt from yesterday).  The skirt is on the same model as the navy one, except I used decorative buttons on the pockets (I happened to have purchased a perfectly matching set around the same time as the fabric!) 

This skirt does feel just ever so slightly bigger around the waist and hips, but I think that is okay.  It is a difference of a centimeter or two, not inches.  I fitted this one on my body as I was making it, whereas I felt more confident about the fit by the time I got to the navy one and put in the darts before sewing it up, which probably contributed a little to the small fit differences.  The burgundy is quite a bit darker than it looks in these photos--it is a really saturated wine color.

The buttons are vintage--probably 1930s, if I had to hazard a guess, going by the style and materials.  They are a perfect match and I really like the Art Deco detailing on the top.  

I didn't have enough to put the same type of button on the waist closure, but I had a lone button in my stash that coordinated well enough.  #horseshoesandhandgrenades

Nothing much to note about the blouse.  It was a 1980s rayon challis remnant that I received as a birthday gift two summers ago, and just got up the courage to cut into.  

It is wonderfully soft and drapey, and I'm totally happy with how it came out.  I just made a basic Portrait blouse, with bias binding for the neck and hem.  After taking pictures, I realized that the neckline looks as if it isn't lying flat, but I think that is to do with the photos--it seems to lie flat when I'm not futzing with a camera.

There are some beige and pinkish tones in the flowers, so I think it will look nice with a taupe wool skirt I have in my winter clothes, or even the navy skirt from yesterday.  I really love the soft floral print.

I interfaced the skirt waistband with Petersham, as with the navy skirt, and worked the buttonhole by hand with embroidery floss. I do wish I had made the slash pockets a bit deeper, so that the button details were more obvious from the front, but on the other hand, having them a bit more subtle keeps the skirt from becoming a "specialty" garment.  Overall, the skirt and blouse just feel like nice basic additions to my fall line up, and I'm pretty happy with them.

It was cold enough to put on a wool sweater this morning!  I pulled out a yellow-gold 1940s resin brooch to pair with it.  I love this style of pin (and I got lucky with the purchase--it was a great find on etsy.  It isn't in perfect shape, but I don't care--it still has plenty of wear left!)

Just the facts:

Wine flowers blouse: vintage rayon, Portrait blouse pattern (Gertie), bias binding

Burgundy twill skirt: Hampton twill, McCall's 4275, vintage buttons, vintage Petersham ribbon, zip, bias binding

Brown wool sweater: Ralph Lauren via ThredUp

1940s resin brooch: etsy

Booties: Clarks via ebay

Green knee socks: Sock Dreams

All the leaves are brown and the sky is gray...

(Apologies for the continual song-lyrics-as-blog-post-title...sometimes I can't come up with anything good)  

Let the great sewing project parade begin!  We are braced for Hurricane Joaquin here, waiting to see what happens in the next few days, so I thought I'd better grab some photos this morning while I could.  The temps and humidity have dropped dramatically overnight and I thought it was a good day to wear some of the clothes I made over the weekend.

As I mentioned, I made two skirts and two blouses during the Papal visit.  One of the skirts was this navy twill skirt.  Two years ago, when I was still learning a lot of garment sewing basics, I made a navy twill skirt that has been a workhorse, but it is sad and worn and doesn't actually fit me that well.  I wear navy a lot, and I thought it was time to make a new one.  After the success of the green twill skirt, I was excited to make this one.  No new construction details to note, except that I made the self-yoked pocket edge slash-style instead of having a bit of a curve to it, just for variety.  I had intended a 1930s-style decorative button treatment on the pockets, but decided in the end to keep it plain.

I should say that the twill I used for this skirt--Hampton Twill from Robert Kaufman--is just lovely.  This is the "midnight" color way, as I was concerned that the navy might read a bit more in the royal family.  This is the perfect shade of navy, in my opinion--very saturated and dark.  I used Hampton twill for the other skirt I made this past weekend and have a dress length of another color way I'm saving for a winter project.  It has a lovely sheen and drape to it.

I think that pull in the back across the top of my hips is just how I'm standing.  I'm pretty sure the skirt hangs smoothly in reality.  

I used a lone navy button from my stash for the waistband.  I worked the buttonhole by hand, as usual, with navy embroidery floss. I used Petersham to stabilize the waistband again, and I really can't say enough good things about this technique.  It just feels so solid and professional.  I'm pretty happy with my zipper insertions lately too.  I realized how much I've learned about various construction techniques this past year.

You may recognize the fabric from the blouse--I made a blouse last year out of the same fabric.  It's a funny story, actually: the vintage fabric I used last year was a birthday gift, and I barely squeaked the blouse out of the yardage I had.  I loved the blouse, liked how it looked on me, but didn't really like wearing it.  

As I wrote last week, I just really don't like wearing woven fabrics in longer sleeve lengths, and this particular fabric has absolutely no mechanical stretch.  It feels like percale or lawn and is very smooth and crisp, but no give.  I've always been kind of bummed that I used the fabric on a blouse that I don't actually enjoy wearing.  

Sometime this summer, I happened across a 2 yard length of the same fabric from an etsy seller I frequent, and I snapped it up quick!  I had thought perhaps to make a skirt to go with the original blouse, but I realized that I don't like the original blouse well enough to make a skirt for it, and I really don't wear prints on the bottom all that much.  Plus the weight of the fabric would make it appropriate to wear approximately one month out of the fall season.  All around, not a great use of the fabric.  I dithered a long time about how best to use it.

In the end, I decided to make a Portrait blouse out of the fabric I had, and just be done with it.  I just love the way that pattern fits, I love how I can layer it up or wear it alone, how it works for multiple seasons.  The colors coordinate with all three of the twill skirts I've made this fall (the green, this navy one, and the burgundy one I'll show soon), plus my rust corduroy skirt from last year.  I think it would even work with my jeans.  It looks good with three or four of my fall cardigans.  I have a length of rust colored rayon-linen in my stash that I'm considering making into slacks at some point, and I think it would look good with those as well!  

I made a belt from the selvage scraps to coordinate, as the Art Deco buttons came with a buckle (they were originally on the Union Station Calling dress, which I recently retired from circulation--it just doesn't fit right and isn't that comfortable).  Wearing the blouse untucked with the belt gives it a very 1930s vibe, and it is nice to have options.  I have about 1/2 yard of fabric left over, and might make a headscarf or some other accessory at some point.

One small construction detail on this blouse: I had to put in a side zip to make sure I could get it on and off easily.  Every blouse I've made prior to this one had enough mechanical stretch in the fabric that I didn't worry about pulling it on over my head, but this fabric just needed a little assist.  The original pattern calls for a side zip anyway, so I just installed a 9" zip into the side seam at the bottom.  I worried a little that it would bug me, but honestly, I don't even notice it.  I used a dark yellow zip because I could.  I also finished the inside edges with marigold yellow bias tape, because, why not?

Just the facts:

Autumn flowers blouse: Portrait blouse (Gertie's pattern, modified), vintage fabric and buttons, yellow zip, bias tape

Navy twill skirt: Hampton twill in midnight, McCall's 4275, vintage Petersham ribbon, random navy button, navy zip, bias tape, embroidery floss for the buttonhole

Cotton/cashmere cardigan: Banana Republic

Earrings: Target

Rain boots: Chookas

HSM #7: Accessory: Sing Me a Song

I've long been a fan of rayon challis.  My very favorite dress (above) was a random thrift store find from the 1980s.  It has a 1940s vibe to it, and I'm really sad that it doesn't fit me right now.  When it fit, I always felt good in it, and I really liked the flow of the dress.  I don't quite dare to take it apart and make a pattern from it, because I'm not sure I can get it back together (all the edges are serged, which presents a number of difficulties in this direction).  I'm still hopeful that it will fit again some day.  

Recently, Lauren from Wearing History recently had a fantastic sale on the custom printed rayon fabric used for the Maisie sash and dress and the Norma Jean blouse.  Even though I supported the Kickstarter campaign (and I love my Wearing History canvas bag!), I didn't buy any of the ready-to-wear garments for a variety of reasons.  But the per-yard price of the fabric was too good to resist.  

So.  Rayon challis.  It represents a kind of fabric frontier for me, as I've been scared to work with it.  Some rayons are very shifty and difficult, and others are nice and behave almost like stable cottons.  It is also strangely hard to find any in nice prints.  Gertie has a couple of them for Joann's (I bought the cherries print when it was on crazy good sale recently) and I sometimes find a random bolt when I'm in a physical store, but mostly, the rayon challis I find comes in solid colors that I wouldn't want to wear, and in a quality that doesn't seem nice to me.   

I did let this fabric sit for quite some time.  I washed it right away, and then asked some advice of a Facebook sewing group I'm in.  One of the gals recommended using stretch needles, and so I had to wait for a packet of them to arrive before attempting to work with this fabric.  It actually was quite easy to work with!  It was stable while cutting (much more so than the linens I've been working with) and pressed easily and sewed well.  I cut a modified sweetheart neckline, just for something different, and finished the raw edges with white cotton bias tape that I sewed down by hand.  My only complaint is that my Frankenpattern behaved completely differently with rayon, and my dress ended up at least two sizes too big on top.  And the bodice came out about 2" too long.  I'm not really sure why this happened.

I had a little tantrum and threw it in the time out corner for a few days before putting the thing on inside out and pinning out the excess.  I had hoped I could fix it without reinserting the zipper, but it was not to be.  I had to unpick the whole bodice from the skirt (including the zig-zagged edges!) and remove the zip.  I pinned out 2" on each side seam, and pin-basted the skirt higher up on the bodice.  I sewed everything back together, and I'm really quite pleased with it now!!  I was worried it would feel too dressy, but actually, now that I'm wearing it, it feels just right for a day dress.  

I did make a soft sash to go with it, but I kind of like the green belt instead.  I actually have several belts that coordinate with this print.  I tried buttons on the bodice, but they just got lost in the print, and I decided that simpler is better anyway.  (Plus the buttons really pulled the fabric down--rayon challis is quite drapey).

I also decided to make my Historical Sew Monthly submission for July to go with this dress.  This month's theme is Accessory.  (I have one other item to put into the challenge, but I have to photograph it!) Felt brooches were quite common in the early 1940s, and I've long been enamored of them.  I've been wanting to make a floral posy for a while, but when I saw this print, I knew my first try was going to be a music note. 

 I spent a lot of years playing the piano and organ, singing in choirs, directing choirs, playing in orchestras (bassoon) and various symphonic bands.  I thought a music note was extremely appropriate to my history and interests, as well as a bang-up accompaniment to this dress.  I've also seen a bakelite musical brooch set on etsy, so I knew it was era appropriate.

I went with navy blue felt, because the green and pink I had didn't quite match, plus I knew that navy would go with some other items in my closet.  I made a template from a google image print out, traced it on the felt with tailor's chalk, cut it out double and then used a buttonhole stitch to finish the edges.  I sewed two brooch pins to the back since it is a tall piece--my experience with my V for Victory brooch is that these larger felt brooches really need two pins to be stable.

I'm pretty pleased with the result, and hope to try some more iterations soon.  I bought a pdf of a 1940s brochure on making felt flower brooches and would like to try a few from it at some point.  This music note was a nice dip into the waters of felt brooch making.  It is also lightweight enough to wear with the rayon and not pull it down or wreck the fabric.

First pedicure of the season!  My husband would have preferred color on my hands as well, but honestly, it isn't hardly worth the money since my fingernails often start chipping on the way home!

The Challenge: Accessory

What is it?: A novelty felt brooch

Fabric: Eco-felt (polyester felt made from recycled plastic bottles)

Pattern: self-drafted but based on novelty brooches of the WW2 era

Year: 1940-1945

Notions: thread, brooch pin backs

How historically accurate is it? 9/10.  I used polyester recycled felt, whereas a period brooch would have been wool felt, but I kind of think that the recycled felt is more in the spirit of make do and mend.  I also used polyester all-purpose thread, whereas cotton or linen thread probably would have been the norm (or even wool yarn in fingering weight).  The style and size are historically appropriate, however.

Hours to complete: It was a fast project--probably an hour.

First worn: July 14, 2015

Total cost: ~$2 (the felt was part of a larger pack, and the brooch pins came in a larger pack of 50 or something like that)

Outfit details: 

Melody rayon challis dress: me made using basic frankenpattern

Music note brooch: me made

Bell earrings: Antique mall, but originally from the 1942 Sears catalog

Shoes: Naturalizer via ebay