Sing it, Sistah.

File this one under: "If it ain't broke..."

I mentioned that I spent some time sewing on Saturday.  I made this blouse and skirt, plus finished the polka dot headscarf I had to hem.  

I have to say, I love Portrait blouses.  I can cut one out and sew it up, start to finish, in under two hours.  This took slightly more than that, because I had a lot of interruptions, but it was close.  The skirt I had already cut out a few weeks ago, so the sewing went pretty quickly on it.  

The blouse is from the Melody rayon challis that I made my dress from in July.  I had quite a bit left over, and easily got the blouse out of the largest piece of left over fabric.  I could probably still make an accessory or two out of the scraps.  I really love this fabric!  It does need a stretch needle to sew up easily, but it handles really well, and I'm totally happy with the way it works on the Portrait blouse--it has just the right amount of drape to it.  I went back to my old kimono sleeves with this blouse, instead of the cut-on style I've been using, because I like the fit better, and I lengthened the bottom about an inch, as I've thought that the blouse was still coming out a bit shorter than I'd like.  I think this is about right for length--I like my blouses to stay tucked in!

The skirt is from my frankenpattern, the vintage McCall's 4275.  I did all my usual modifications, plus adding some darts in the front and back for additional shaping.  I used this technique for the waistband construction, and I'm so pleased with how it came out.  The Petersham ribbon gives the waistband so much more stability, and the double width of the fabric makes it nice and smooth (I always did wonder about getting that annoying ridge out of the waistband.  It feels very sturdy and I like that I can wear the skirt without a belt.  I'm going to use this technique from now on!  It really doesn't take extra time, and the finish is so nice and clean.  

I used a leftover vintage button from my green cardigan for the closure, and handworked the button hole with embroidery floss.  The fabric is a basic cotton twill I found at fabric.com--it is lightweight and has nice drape, although it does want to wrinkle a bit more than some other fabrics I've worked with.  It isn't as nice as the Hampton Twill from Robert Kaufman, but the price is pretty sweet, so there's that.  Plus I really wanted kelly green, and wasn't inclined to be picky about the manufacturer as long as the color was correct.  Since the cotton-linen Hollyburn I made this summer was a bust, I've really been missing a green skirt in my wardrobe--so many of my blouses are made to go with one. 

I left the skirt unlined so I can wear it in several seasons.  I did the hem with bias tape, and top-stitched the pockets, as usual.  I used a jeans needle for sewing the fabric and I'm so glad I did!  The last twill skirt I made I just used a regular needle, and it was such tough going.  The heavier needle worked great.  I probably could have gotten away with a heavier weight universal needle, given that this was a light weight twill, but the jeans needle was good too.  It was especially nice for the top stitching.  The fabric is quite soft (not as soft as the micro-brushed twill I used two summers ago, but close) and I'm pleased with it.  I would order another color way from this manufacturer again, I think.

Mostly I just feel pleased that I made an A-line skirt that fits me really well and looks good (if I do say so myself).  I know skirts are supposed to be a great starter project, but honestly, if you have a large hip-to-waist ratio (and for most of my life, I have had 10"+ difference) it is really hard to fit properly.  I think skirts are the most challenging garment for me to fit correctly.  This skirt gives me hope!  I also had good luck last winter with my straight flannel skirt, and will definitely use that pattern again as well.

Just the facts:

Melody Portrait blouse: Gertie's Portrait blouse from Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing (the first one), Melody rayon challis from Wearing History clothing, bias tape

Kelly green twill skirt: McCall's 4275 and Hollyburn pocket piece, cotton twill from fabric.com, bias tape, zipper, petersham ribbon, vintage button, embroidery floss

shoes: dankso via ebay

earrings: vintage, via flea market