I have a few crafty friends, and I was chatting with one of them a few weeks ago, and she mentioned that she finds sewing for herself daunting (she mostly sews for her kids). After our conversation, I started thinking about why I find sewing for myself so satisfying, and came up with a little list that I thought I'd share in the hopes that it might help someone else discover the joy of sewing!
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| This skirt is one of the first things I made last fall when I got back into sewing after a decade-long hiatus. It doesn't really suit my personal style list on a number of counts, but I'm keeping it for now because I'm still attached to it for symbolic reasons. Plus the yellow is cheerful and the fabric from one of my favorite designers. |
The first thing I'd say about sewing for yourself is to inventory your personal style. The best way to do this is to look at the clothing you wear the most. What kind of fabric is is made of? Is it cotton knits, or do you steer mostly toward woven fabrics? Floaty or structured pieces? WhatDo you wear a lot of denim? Skirts, trousers, dresses? What sorts of details do you like about the pieces you wear most often? Does it have an interesting embroidery pattern, or is the print appealing, or the shape? What sorts of silhouettes are you drawn to when you shop for yourself?
I've been making a sort of personal style list for myself so that I can steer my sewing toward projects that I will love and wear again and again, and this is my list so far:
I like:
cotton woven fabric in novelty prints
microbrushed twill in solids
rayon challis in fun prints
wool/tweeds for winter in browns, grays, and blues
blues, reds, and greens
curry yellow/mustard accents (nothing near my face though)
French breton shirts (LLBean are my faves)
A line skirts with pockets
Dresses with pockets and self belts
Shallow scoop, "U" or square neck lines
Kimono sleeves (I don't mind setting in sleeves, but really like the look of kimono sleeves)
Novelty print notched collar blouses without chest pockets
Wellies
Metal zippers either lapped or regular set
Interesting buttons and buckles (if they coordinate, even better!)
Saddle stitching
Hand embroidery, but in small doses, like on a pocket edge
Hourglass shaped dresses (fitted on top to a tailored waist, then a fitted a-line skirt)
Eisenhower-style banded blouses/light jackets
Knitted cardigans in a cropped/fitted style
Jewel tones
Solids on bottom, prints on top
Solid dresses with interesting details like novelty buttons, or small amounts of embroidery
I'm hoping this list will help me to clarify my thinking both when shopping for finished garments and also during the design stages of sewing.
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| I really didn't wear this much in the fall, but I am wearing the skirt more this spring, and making an effort to find pieces in my dresser to go with it (yellow is a hard color to coordinate with, I find). I'm also planning to add patch pockets to the front, as that is my primary beef with this skirt (fit issues aside). |
The second thing I'd say is what is your style of sewing/crafting? Are you someone who likes to make a project quickly or do you like to take your time and do a project in stages? Do you have a lot of attention to detail? Do you like handwork or hand sewing? Is it important to you that the insides of your garments are cleanly finished with seam binding or serging?
These sorts of questions will help you to narrow in on the sorts of projects to put on your list. For myself, I prefer to get projects done quickly, and while I have a lot of attention to detail, I don't like spending multiple days on the sewing part of projects (this is mostly to do with my sewing set up, which must be put up and taken down every time I sew). I like small amounts of hand sewing like hand-worked button holes, and small amounts of embroidery, but don't really have the patience to work with fiddly or floaty-type fabrics that require a lot of special handling, or with projects that need a lot of tailoring like pad stitching on a fitted jacket. I'm okay with pinked seams and I don't mind zig-zagging the edges of fabrics that need it, but I don't make a habit of it. I also don't yet have the skill set to do a lot of grading and fitting, and while it is something I do want to get better at, my kids are still pretty little, so I'm limiting myself to patterns and projects that:
are relatively easy to sew and press (and the fabrics reasonably priced)
use fabrics that are easy care (novelty woven cottons, mostly)
should fit relatively well right out of the pattern packet
don't require a lot of hand sewing (except maybe hemming or buttonholes)
The third thing is what sort of equipment do you have to work with? If you primarily wear stretchy knits, but don't have a serger/overlocker or the proper sort of needle/walking foot to sew with knits on your machine, you are probably going to find sewing with knits frustrating. Ditto for floaty fabrics like chiffon or georgette that require a steady hand, lots of hand sewing, and attention to fabric edges (which will fray unless serged or otherwise finished; pinked seams won't cut it)
I do have a twin needle for my machine, but am pretty intimidated by knits at this point. At some point, I'd like to try a knit that is stable like a woven, such as ponte, but for now, I'll stick with my woven cottons and twills. (And I'm sure the
new Collette Knits book can help me sort out the details when I'm ready!)
Finally: are you afraid of your own measurements? The most frustrating thing is to spend time sewing a garment and then it doesn't fit! Just get out a soft measuring tape and do it. The gift of a well-fitting garment will be well worth it, and it is a numbers game after all. I've learned, especially during these last few years dressing vintage style, that it is best to go by garment measurements than by size. Might as well designate sizes as Bumble Bee or Giraffe, for all the difference they make as to whether something will fit well. The important part is the measurements!
And because I'm feeling sort of brave, I'll give you mine:
Bust: 38-40" (depending on where I'm at in the day with nursing), B cup usually
Waist: 33-35" (depending on how well my gastroparesis is doing)
Hips: 43.5"
Shoulder width: 17" (this is approximate because I had to measure it myself; I just know I'm about 1" narrower on each shoulder than industry standard)
Upper arm circumference: 13.5"
Upper thigh circumference: 23" (this is important to know because if something is really fitted through the hips, you can get thigh bulge if there isn't enough ease across the tops of the legs; not pretty. Also: I still think I have decent legs. Muscles. Got them in spades. And a little chub too, let's be real.)
Inseam: 27" (Snack size!)
Rise: ~15" (I know, I know!)
*ducks and hides*
I'm slowly refining what I like to wear, and translating that into a list of sewing projects to make (and knit!), but I'm really happy with almost everything in my closet right now, so, progress!