Union Station Calling ~wiws~

I think I've cracked my ideal dress pattern.  I was initially disappointed with my Frankendress, but after wearing it several times (and receiving a ton of compliments every time!), I decided that maybe the pattern only needed a little bit of tweaking to be just right.  I really love this dress!  I cut it out on Friday morning, sewed it during the afternoon yesterday, and wore it to church today!

I made a few drafting changes to the Emery bodice, including lowering the bust darts 1/2" and shortening them by 1" and omitting all the waist shaping.  I realize I could have gone up a size and kept them, but I like the slightly looser fit this way, and I'm happy with the bodice without them.  I also decided to cut a round neckline on this one instead of square, but I like both, so will probably alternate on future iterations.

I also redrafted my kimono sleeves so that the pattern pieces meet under the arm and are part of the side seam, rather than the more basic style I've been using this past year (I can make a little tutorial if anyone cares to know what I did)  The change gives me more ease of movement with my arms, which is always a plus.

It's probably the second-worst zipper insertion I've ever done, but it is functional, and the worst part is hidden by the belt.  I'm still struggling to understand how to make a clean insertion when a zipper has to cross the hemisphere of bodice/skirt.  I had to piece the belt together as I decided at the last minute to make one, and had cut my fabric without allowing for it (and I was cutting it close on the yardage as it was), but it worked out in the end.  It isn't a beautiful self-belt, but it works.

I opted to use bias tape instead of facings, and to hem the bottom with it as well, which made things go very fast.  I also omitted the lining, as my main complaint about the Florence dress is that the self-lined bodice is too thick.  (I may yet take it apart and finish the edges with bias instead; if only I hadn't finished the inside waistband so nicely!)

I used a 1930s button/buckle card that worked perfectly.  I also used a pocket pattern from another vintage pattern I have, and I'm much happier with how they look on this skirt, plus the overall shape is very nice.  They are still patch pockets, but they were much easier to place because they are set into the side and waist seams.

Details:

Union Station Calling dress: Me made from Emery bodice + McCall's 4275 skirt + Simplicity 1797 pockets

Cardigan: 1960s era, from my aunt via my mom

Orange circle brooch: etsy

Earrings: target

Tights: Foot Traffic via Sock Dreams (Heather Mocha color)

Shoes: softspots via ebay