WIWS: Florence and the Frankendress

Doing the FLAP thing.

So.  This dress.  I almost didn't blog it, because I wasn't at all sure I liked it.  It is the dress I thought would be the block for many iterations to come, but when I finished it, and tried it on, I was a little meh.  The bust darts were too high and about 1" too long (Christine Haynes must design for much younger women with much perkier, uh, assets, than this elderly multigravitas), plus the silhouette wasn't quite what I was expecting.  Some of that is my own bloated self at the moment, and some of it is my skewed expectations based on pattern art (which features heavily corseted women).  I'm sure this dress would have a similar shape were I wearing appropriate foundation garments. 

But I've worn it three days now, and have made a few tweaks, tried a few different stylings, and I think I like it now!  There are definitely things I'll do differently on a future iteration, but this pattern combo has possibilities.

Construction details: I used an Emery bodice, that I redrafted to have kimono sleeves and a square neckline.  I probably should have gone up a size on the bodice, as I had to remove both sets of waist darts, and the bodice *just* fits across the bust.  The finished garment measurements as listed on the pattern don't really align with reality (something I should have figured out from Tasha's many posts on the Emery bodice, but live and learn).  I should have known about the bust darts too, also based on Tasha's observations, but this has never been an issue up to now with sewing, so I confess I wasn't expecting it. 

This is also my first back zip dress (I've only done side zips up to now) and I kind of like it!  It certainly is easier, and the finish is very clean.  I ended up sewing the thing in by hand because of how I did the bodice lining (i.e. total novice).  

I used Florence fabric from Denyse Schmidt, who I love for vintage-inspired fabrics.  My only complaint is that the pattern is drafted for a lined bodice, and I opted to self-line, which was a mistake with this fabric.  The bodice is a little stiff as a result, but I'm hoping it will soften with time and washing.  It is already better after several wearings.  It also won't do for the extreme heat of summer, but it has jumped back into the low 80s the last few days, and I've been comfortable in the dress.

I used some vintage (probably 1930s, going by the Deco shape) black buttons as a decorative touch.  I should really move the last one up about 1/2", as it is just a bit lower than the other three, and it kind of makes my eye twitch.

The skirt section came from this vintage McCalls pattern from the 1950s. I really liked the bodice on the original, but really wanted to try the Emery bodice as the shaping on this one is different.  I might try this one at some point, as I do like the shape of the main dress (the solid blue one with the longer sleeves)  I also opted for patch pockets instead of inseam, because try as I might, I just can't get my brain around inseam pockets.  I've done them a few times, and I've watched a ton of tutorials, but I just.can't.get.it.  A problem for another day.  I started out with two but ended up removing one as it just looked weird with two.  I've got vintage dresses that have only one pocket, so I felt confident that it was appropriate for the style.

The other bit of craziness about the skirt pattern is that it is LONG!  I ended up with a 5" hem.  I should have just trimmed it, but I've not had good luck doing that in the past, so I just made a big ol' fat hem instead.  It does give me the option to let it down for a more 1930s vibe if I wanted to at some point.  I should also say that this dress has the prettiest insides of any dress I've made so far.

I wore this to church yesterday for the Feast of the Elevation of the Cross, and again today because I'm boring like that.  It stood up to heat, lots of baby wearing, and general wear and tear and a combined total of 4 hours of Divine Liturgy with four small children, so I'll call it a win!

Florence Dress: Me Made with Emery and McCalls 4275 patterns

Black leather belt: H&M (several years ago)

Owl brooch: Acorn and Will

Bell Earrings: thrifted (but I found a pair just like them in the 1942 Sears catalog!)

Headscarf: Ralph Lauren via ThredUp

Shoes: Dansko via ebay

Bags under my eyes: courtesy of my children