(Apologies for the continual song-lyrics-as-blog-post-title...sometimes I can't come up with anything good)
Let the great sewing project parade begin! We are braced for Hurricane Joaquin here, waiting to see what happens in the next few days, so I thought I'd better grab some photos this morning while I could. The temps and humidity have dropped dramatically overnight and I thought it was a good day to wear some of the clothes I made over the weekend.
As I mentioned, I made two skirts and two blouses during the Papal visit. One of the skirts was this navy twill skirt. Two years ago, when I was still learning a lot of garment sewing basics, I made a navy twill skirt that has been a workhorse, but it is sad and worn and doesn't actually fit me that well. I wear navy a lot, and I thought it was time to make a new one. After the success of the green twill skirt, I was excited to make this one. No new construction details to note, except that I made the self-yoked pocket edge slash-style instead of having a bit of a curve to it, just for variety. I had intended a 1930s-style decorative button treatment on the pockets, but decided in the end to keep it plain.
I should say that the twill I used for this skirt--Hampton Twill from Robert Kaufman--is just lovely. This is the "midnight" color way, as I was concerned that the navy might read a bit more in the royal family. This is the perfect shade of navy, in my opinion--very saturated and dark. I used Hampton twill for the other skirt I made this past weekend and have a dress length of another color way I'm saving for a winter project. It has a lovely sheen and drape to it.
I think that pull in the back across the top of my hips is just how I'm standing. I'm pretty sure the skirt hangs smoothly in reality.
I used a lone navy button from my stash for the waistband. I worked the buttonhole by hand, as usual, with navy embroidery floss. I used Petersham to stabilize the waistband again, and I really can't say enough good things about this technique. It just feels so solid and professional. I'm pretty happy with my zipper insertions lately too. I realized how much I've learned about various construction techniques this past year.
You may recognize the fabric from the blouse--I made a blouse last year out of the same fabric. It's a funny story, actually: the vintage fabric I used last year was a birthday gift, and I barely squeaked the blouse out of the yardage I had. I loved the blouse, liked how it looked on me, but didn't really like wearing it.
As I wrote last week, I just really don't like wearing woven fabrics in longer sleeve lengths, and this particular fabric has absolutely no mechanical stretch. It feels like percale or lawn and is very smooth and crisp, but no give. I've always been kind of bummed that I used the fabric on a blouse that I don't actually enjoy wearing.
Sometime this summer, I happened across a 2 yard length of the same fabric from an etsy seller I frequent, and I snapped it up quick! I had thought perhaps to make a skirt to go with the original blouse, but I realized that I don't like the original blouse well enough to make a skirt for it, and I really don't wear prints on the bottom all that much. Plus the weight of the fabric would make it appropriate to wear approximately one month out of the fall season. All around, not a great use of the fabric. I dithered a long time about how best to use it.
In the end, I decided to make a Portrait blouse out of the fabric I had, and just be done with it. I just love the way that pattern fits, I love how I can layer it up or wear it alone, how it works for multiple seasons. The colors coordinate with all three of the twill skirts I've made this fall (the green, this navy one, and the burgundy one I'll show soon), plus my rust corduroy skirt from last year. I think it would even work with my jeans. It looks good with three or four of my fall cardigans. I have a length of rust colored rayon-linen in my stash that I'm considering making into slacks at some point, and I think it would look good with those as well!
I made a belt from the selvage scraps to coordinate, as the Art Deco buttons came with a buckle (they were originally on the Union Station Calling dress, which I recently retired from circulation--it just doesn't fit right and isn't that comfortable). Wearing the blouse untucked with the belt gives it a very 1930s vibe, and it is nice to have options. I have about 1/2 yard of fabric left over, and might make a headscarf or some other accessory at some point.
One small construction detail on this blouse: I had to put in a side zip to make sure I could get it on and off easily. Every blouse I've made prior to this one had enough mechanical stretch in the fabric that I didn't worry about pulling it on over my head, but this fabric just needed a little assist. The original pattern calls for a side zip anyway, so I just installed a 9" zip into the side seam at the bottom. I worried a little that it would bug me, but honestly, I don't even notice it. I used a dark yellow zip because I could. I also finished the inside edges with marigold yellow bias tape, because, why not?
Just the facts:
Autumn flowers blouse: Portrait blouse (Gertie's pattern, modified), vintage fabric and buttons, yellow zip, bias tape
Navy twill skirt: Hampton twill in midnight, McCall's 4275, vintage Petersham ribbon, random navy button, navy zip, bias tape, embroidery floss for the buttonhole
Cotton/cashmere cardigan: Banana Republic
Earrings: Target
Rain boots: Chookas
The perfect skirt. I need a bunch of them immediately.
ReplyDelete