Back to Basics: Let's Start At the Very Beginning...

I mentioned a while back that I'm trying to work with more "garment" specific fabrics, rather than quilting-weight cottons all the time.  Part of this is an effort to challenge myself a bit, and part of it is to make some basics for my wardrobe.  I'm also trying to find the right skirt sweep, as I've discovered that I feel too old for full circle skirts, and I don't like the feeling of drowning in fabric.

I spent some time recently going through photos, mostly from Me-Made May, but some earlier ones as well, and realized that, sometimes, you have to go back to the beginning.  I made my first Frankenpatterned dress last September--the Florence dress.  It took me a while to really like it, because there were a few fit issues with the bodice, but it grew on me after a few wearings.  I decided that my combination of patterns (a modified Emery bodice together with the skirt from my vintage McCall's 4275) were a winner.  I've spent most of this past school year sewing iterations on that dress, tweaking here, adjusting there, trying some new things with the skirt sweep, the pockets, the cut and ease of the sleeves, neckline shapes, zipper placement, the finishing, the details.  

I've learned a ton by making this dress again and again, and also a bit about drafting as I've modified the Emery bodice pretty much beyond recognition.  The waist darts went with the first iteration, the bust darts are much shorter and lower than the original, the kimono sleeve adjustment I made originally has been redrafted for French sleeves (a kimono variation that has more ease of movement); I redrafted the French sleeves earlier this spring to give more wearing ease, as I was constantly feeling like my sleeves were on the edge of being too tight.  I started cutting the skirt front on the fold, and added self-yoked pockets with the Hollyburn pocket piece.  I realized I really prefer them to the patch pockets I was using in the fall.  I gave the skirt a wider sweep after trying one dress with a Hollyburn skirt.  I tried a button-down split bodice twice before realizing that I really didn't care for it.  I shortened the bodice, then shortened it some more, and then realized I'd gone too far and went for something in between.  The skirt length has been creeping ever downward, and lately has ended up at a not-quite-flattering length.

The last few times I've made this dress, with a few exceptions, I really haven't loved the result.  My Spring for Cotton dress is just okay, but the Lime Flowers dress is a disaster--it fits me weird and the color doesn't do me any favors.  It was a good experience in learning how to trim a dress, however, so not a total loss.  The Butterick 3819 was an interesting historical and creative experiment, but the color really looks terrible on me and I just don't like it that much.  

I wore my Florence dress again recently and realized how much I do like the fit and sweep of the skirt (the bodice still has some issues, but it is wearable, and considering it was the first iteration, still not bad).  It has that early 1930s vibe that I love right now, but doesn't feel costume-y. I decided to go back to cutting the skirt section as drafted on the McCall's 4275, (with the addition of the self-faced yoked pocket that I prefer), and to get back to a 27" skirt length.  I made two dresses in short order (I'll share the other one when I've had a chance to photograph it) and I'm pretty happy with both. 

This chambray one is a really nice closet staple.  It will work for all seasons, can be layered up or down, is lightweight enough for disgusting summer weather, but I think will also work for winter as well.  I like the dark indigo blue of the chambray (some chambrays wash me out or just don't look right against my skin tone).  

I'm thrilled with the skirt sweep (72" is about my limit, I think), the shape of the neckline, the length, the top stitching, the whole bit.   I had to finish the insides a bit more than I usually do because chambray wants to fray at the edges, so I pinked and zig-zagged all the major seam allowances, and then added a strip of rayon seam binding to the waist seam and prick stitched it to the bodice because I didn't want any extra thread on the seam around my middle.  I top-stitched the pockets to mimic the look of bias finishing and I'm really happy with it.   The sleeves, neckline and hem are all finished with bias tape, as usual. 

 I have two belts that work well with it, and am planning an embroidered swiss waist-style belt as part of the Historical Sew Monthly challenge for July.  This dress will also work with any number of leather belts I already have in my closet.  

My only complaint is that it wrinkles and creases with wearing, but I also think that will sort itself as it is washed more.  I think I should also cut my square necks just a smidge wider at the bottom, as I'm noticing diagonal wrinkles at the upper part of the bodice (this happens with v-necks too, but not scoop necklines--I don't know why).  It took a supreme effort of will, but I deliberately kept this dress very plain--I wanted to have something that could be accessorized in a lot of different ways, and with different colors, depending on the season (I tend to wear brighter colors in summer but darker tones in winter).

 Back to Basics Chambray Dress: Robert Kaufman Chambray Union AK Indigo, (finished with bias and rayon seam binding from the stash), heavily modified Emery bodice, McCall's 4275 skirt, Hollyburn pockets

Necklace: etsy

Earrings: a gift

Sunglasses: retronettie (ebay)

Naturalizer sandals: second hand via ebay (my brown strappy Clarks literally disintegrated on me about a week ago, so I had to find another pair of neutral/brown sandals for the season--so far these are a winner)