HSM #6: Out of Your Comfort Zone (Take One): Tomato-Tumahtoe Dress

I have at least two entries (and possibly a third) for this month's Historical Sew Monthly Challenge: Out of Your Comfort Zone.  I admit, I've spent the last several months doing the sewing equivalent of yoga pants--using my Frankenpattern again and again, only tweaking slightly on each version, letting my printy-utilitarian self go to town while keeping my sewing frustration threshold low.

This month, I stepped out of my comfort zone and tried a few new things.  This dress was the second (I'll share the first in a day or so).  It is a 1943 swing dress.  What put it outside my comfort zone were two things: the fabric and the color.  The fabric is a vintage linen that I found on etsy that appears to have a bit of rayon blended in.  The seller sold it as 100% linen, but given how it behaves, I think there is probably rayon in there as well.  It was quite shifty to work with.  I've always been intimidated by shifty fabrics, as I generally sew with very stable medium-weight cottons.

The second was that the dress is a solid color.  I usually work with prints, because I'm drawn to them, but I'm realizing that I should have more solids in my closet.  (Although it must be said--it is hard to find solid-colored garment weight fabrics that don't cost the earth--why must the medium weight solid cottons be so awful for garments but the prints are lovely???)  I still like my prints, but I probably get more wear out of solids.  And you really can't go wrong with a tomato red 1940s style swing dress.

I had a button and buckle card that matched perfectly--it took a lot of restraint not to use contrast buttons or buckle, but I wanted to keep this dress pretty plain, and also challenge myself not to do what I always do (which is contrast).  I used a sweetheart neckline again, and it was harder to get the scallops to lie right on this version, probably because of the drape of the fabric.  

I put in another side zip (9" this time--worked great) and my preferred yoked pockets.  They stand out from the skirt a bit more than I intended, but it is period appropriate, so I guess I'll just say I meant to do that.  Ha!

This is possibly the best belt I've ever made.  It is top-stitched, double thickness, and pointed on the ends.  I sort of used Esther's tutorial, but did a few things differently too (like folding the belt length in half around the buckle.

It is semi-fitted, but loose enough to wear on those days when my body is bloated, so I'm pretty pleased with how it fits.

My only complaint is that the dress wrinkles if you look at it sideways, but that is linen for you.  I wished it wrinkled more like 100% linen does, because it becomes kind of a design feature, but the rayon makes it crease instead of get those nice linen-y wrinkles.  I also really like the breathability of linen.  That said, it is a nice weight for summer, and I think will transition well for spring or fall.  (I think it will make a wonderful Pascha dress, for example)

I think the buttons and buckle just might be Bakelite, but it is hard to tell.  The card was pretty shabby, but it is definitely from the late 1930s or early 1940s.

I think I can style it more casually with sandals too, which is nice, as I don't generally wear heels on the daily!  Too hard in the city with kids.

The Challenge: Out of Your Comfort Zone

What is it? WW2 Swing Dress

Fabric: 3 yards vintage linen-rayon blend (although probably later than 1940s, as the width was about 44" wide)  I had almost nothing left at the end--just bitty scraps.

Pattern: self-drafted but loosely based on Simplicity 4710 dated 1943

Year: ~1943

Notions: vintage bias binding, vintage buttons/buckle, modern zip

How historically accurate is it? 9/10--the zip is polyester, and the bias binding was a poly-cotton mix, but the fabric is appropriate.  I didn't replicate a specific pattern or image, but the dress is kind of a composite of several World War II-era dress patterns that I like.  The skirt sweep is appropriate for rationing, and the kimono-style sleeves are very fabric efficient.  The dress is utilitarian in color and style, and would work equally well with a suit jacket for smart day wear, or a cardigan or shawl for a dressier night time look.  

Hours to complete: A bit more than usual because it was fiddly and I lost patience at a few points.  So probably 7.

First worn: June 7, 2015 for photos.  I'm down with a nasty summer cold, but mustered a bit of energy to put the photos together.  I'm hoping to wear it for real soon.

Total cost: ~$30