Beware Shirting in Sheep's Clothing...or something

Earlier this summer, I ran across some 100% cotton shirting in aqua gingham.  It was on sale for less than $5/yard, and I've had a hard time finding gingham that doesn't have polyester in it (which is nice for body, but makes me sweat in summer).  I had an Anne Adams dress pattern from the mid-1950s that I wanted to try, and the pattern line art even featured a gingham type pattern, so I knew these two should go together.  The fabric arrived, and it was so soft!  It was also very thin.  Like tissue thin.  Which is great for a July dress, but I was a little concerned about sewing with it given that almost all my garment sewing experience up to now has been with mid-to-bottom weight cottons.  

Turns out I was right to be.  This dress almost did me in.  I nearly threw it in the corner so many times, and wanted to scratch my eyes out at almost every stage of the sewing process.  The pattern itself is fine, and pretty easy to follow--the only thing I would change on a future iteration would be to shorten the bodice by about 1/2" or so, but that is minor.  

The fabric wanted to pucker and gather on every single seam, and I unless I held the fabric taut-taut-taut for every inch of the stitching, the finished seams were a disaster.  This was particularly challenging on the yoke piece, as it was cut on the bias and wanted to s--t--r--e--t--c--h like a crazy cat. I tried shorter stitches, longer stitches, nothing helped.  I feel like I sewed every seam at least twice. I probably should have figured out how to use my walking foot, but at that point, I just wanted to get the dumb thing finished.  Even the hand sewing on this fabric was frustrating because it was so thin. 

Proof that I don't edit my photos much--pink rubber bouncy ball from the kids on the back patio.

 I did have a bit of trouble pattern matching, but I tried to make it count where it showed the most (on the front skirt part), and I think it isn't too bad on the back.  I think I prefer patterned fabrics that don't require matching--my frustration threshold for such things is super low right now.  I set the zipper in by hand because I couldn't see fighting with my machine over a side zip, which are perilous under the best of circumstances!  It went in okay, but the stitches are a little more visible than I had planned.  Oh well.  As another sewing blogger noted--hand stitches aren't meant to be perfect!

Now for the good.  The fit is decent, and aside from the bodice length (and crazy dress length--again!  I had to trim 3" off the bottom, and still have a 3" hem), I like how it looks.  I think it would be fun with a red belt!  It probably would look better with some foundation garments, but that would negate the breeziness of it for extreme summer heat, so I'm glad it is at least passable without them.  I wish I could push this fabric through the screen so you could feel it!  It is amazingly soft.

I think the top could be made into a decent blouse too.  I love the sleeve construction, as it gives more ease of movement than some of my other kimono sleeve garments.  I like that almost all the seams are encased neatly, and that the yoke part is self-faced.  I like the button tab detail at the collar, and I like the unusual shape of the pockets (which were actually quite easy when it came down to it).  

I'll just be more careful about my fabric weight on the next go-round.  I'm already scheming another version, featuring some vintage novelty print fabric I have in my stash with geisha girls!  It is a 1 yard piece, so I can't get more than the bottom part of the bodice out of it (or the contrast yoke + pockets), but I have some coordinating Free Spirit solid colored fabric that will do nicely, I think.   

In any case, a good test garment for the pattern, and I think this dress will do quite nicely for next summer.  We have had a brief return of summery weather these last few days, so I've even been able to squeak a few wearings out.  

Dress: Anne Adams 4986

Belt: second hand from MIL

Earrings: from my gram

Shoes: trusty Softspots via ebay