Casey Skirt vs. Everyday Skirt

I'm long overdue with this blog post, which I meant to post last month when the pattern released.  Earlier this spring, I was able to test a pattern for the lovely Brigid Everson, of Brijee Patterns: the Casey Skirt.  It is based on a 1940s design, with a big box pleat in the center front and center back and the biggest patch pockets I've ever seen!  It is my first time testing a pattern and I was happy to do it.

The high waisted design and the unique elements of the skirt appealed to me.  I tested a size 12, even though I'm more or less between a 12 and 14 on her size chart. 

I had a little trouble with the pdf pattern because I didn't have the ability to turn off all the other size lines, so it was difficult to figure out which size line to cut in some places, but if you have better tech skillz than me, she has a great tutorial on the blog about how to turn off the extra size lines.  

I used Robert Kaufman's Essex Brussels linen line in brick, and liked it very much.  The rayon gives the linen some heft and a nice drape.  It doesn't carry wrinkles the same way that pure linen does.  I'll be using this fabric again!  

The pattern was very easy to put together, the markings were good, and the instruction had lovely and clear illustrations for the pleats and the pocket construction.  I ended up constructing the pocket differently because I wanted the flap to lie flat (I do not need additional volume on my hips), and also because by the time I was applying the pockets, I was pretty sure the skirt wasn't going to fit me.  I ended up taking 2" off each side seam for a better fit, and then refitting the waistband at the end. 

I really liked that the pattern has markings for the whole pocket, given the size, so it was really easy to make sure the pocket placement was correct.  I worked my buttonholes by hand and used two vintage buttons from my gram's button box that matched.  They kind of have an Art Deco feel to them (and going by the feel and a few other factors, I'm guessing they date from the 1930s).  I wished I had reinforced the waistband with petersham instead of fusible, as the fusible did not want to play nice once I started wearing it.  

My zipper was not the cleanest at the top edge, but that is down to me and not the pattern.  Because I was just trying to finish the skirt and not necessarily wear it, I did a quick and dirty hem by zig-zagging the edges and hemming up 3" as instructed.  I machine hemmed it, but the thread is such a close match it hardly shows.  This is similar to how ready-to-wear hems are constructed in woven fabrics.  I liked that the skirt was a longer length to start with--I almost always have to add several inches, and it was nice to just cut the skirt as printed!

Let me say for the record that this is a cute skirt, and I did wear it a couple of times.  I got a lot of compliments every time I did.  That said, however, I struggled to feel good in it.  The waistband is a little too high for my short waist and needed constant adjusting through the day, and the length is a bit long on my short calves.  The overall volume of the skirt felt slightly matronly to me (it is the same problem I have with the Hollyburn, now that I think about it).  I couldn't reach the bottom of the pockets without angling my body in a weird way (Hobbit arms strike again!) and I didn't think the back box pleat was particularly flattering on my body.  (It looks very cute on a straighter figure, however).

I tried it with another blouse to be sure about it and confirmed two things at one blow.  Number one is that even though I love that feedsack Portrait blouse, I don't want to wear it any more.  I also don't really want to wear short sleeves right now.

Number two is that the skirt is just too much volume for my current taste. I like the gentle sweep of the Everyday skirt better--it has a nice fall to it, but skims the body nicely.  

(also, these shoes are horrible.  They gave me terrible blisters, look really frumpy on my frame, are not my style, and were generally a not a good ebay find.  Oh well.  You win some, you lose some).

I ended up refitting this skirt for Birdie's godmother, who is quite a bit taller than me and has the right length arms for the pockets!  She loved the big pockets.  I took out the back box pleat, cut a new waistband for a 1" height with petersham, and added back elastic for a comfortable fit.  It turned out pretty well and looks great on her!

In the meantime, I made my Everyday skirt out of the same fabric with the same box pleat in the front, as I really like that feature of the Casey skirt and find it super flattering.  It is a great way to hide front "fluff" without adding visual volume.  I'm really grateful to the Casey pattern for this idea, as I'm sure I'll continue to make this modification on my Everyday skirt pattern going forward.

I bought the Brooks blouse during Brigid's sale and I'm eager to make that one up soon!