Cross Hatch: Now with Sleeves!

I decided last week, after studying the Sew House 7 Tea Dress pattern, and looking at finished versions from other people, that there were too many things about the pattern I didn't like.  I was concerned about how much ease was built into the pattern (to get the fit I wanted, I was going to have to cut a size 2 or 4--what?!?) and I was worried that it was still going to be baggy on top.  Baggy tops are not particularly flattering on me since it is my smallest part.  

I am very happy with the fit of my Simplicity 1080 (aka Dottie Angel), particularly in the shoulders and bust, and I thought perhaps I could simply alter it to capture the essence of what I liked about the tea dress.  The Tea dress has cut-on sleeves with a cuff at the elbow.  I do not like cuffs because I wear my sweaters fitted, but I did want to experiment with longer cut-on sleeves after the failure of my muslin with set-in sleeves earlier this week.  There was also a bunch of blousy going on in the back, and I didn't like how the yoke looked with the waist ties.  What I did like were the big square pockets and the wrap-around waist tie, together with the cut-on sleeves. 

I decided to just extend and narrow the sleeve of my Simplicity 1080 out to the edge of the fabric, which gave me sleeves just below elbow length (one of the rare advantages to short arms!)  I do think I might take the sleeve up to a proper elbow length, as not-quite 3/4 length they currently are is a little awkward looking.

I added long waist ties and put them into the bust tucks (which is actually something on the original Dottie Angel pattern that I've only done a few times).  I made the ties wide to mimic the ties on the Tea Dress pattern.  

I also used a different pocket pattern.  They are big and square with a point on the bottom.  Super easy to install, and similar in look to the pockets on the Tea dress (the original pattern has the skirt cut in panels and the pockets are set into the side panels, but I couldn't really do that with this dress since it is all cut in one piece). 

I added 1/2" of length to the bottom to account for the waist ties bringing everything up slightly.  My only complaint is that I think I should have scooped out the neckline in the front slightly.  It is the same as I always cut it, but I think a slightly lower neckline would balance the dress a bit more.  I could still take off the bias and do it, but this is fine for now.

The fabric for this dress is a cross-hatch chambray from Robert Kaufman.  It has good body and is a decent weight but still has some nice drape to it.  I actually think it looks better in person than in the pictures.  It is a deeper blue than looks like in the photos as well.  The back of the fabric was a little bit of a pain, since all the crosses are attached to one another by threads, but I just zig-zagged all my raw edges and am hoping for the best.

I'm quite pleased with this one, as it is comfortable and a little more transitional.  The weather finally cooled back down today, so I was happy to be able to wear it.

I would also be remiss if I didn't mention the movie Our Souls at Night on Netflix.  I saw it yesterday and it is fantastic.  I highly recommend it.  It was fun to see Robert Redford and Jane Fonda together again on screen.  Robert Redford remains a particular favorite of mine, and Barefoot in the Park was one of my favorite movies in high school.  My mom and I designed a dress for me my junior year that was based on the pink dress that Jane Fonda wears in the movie.  :)  (I think my favorite movie of his is Up Close and Personal, followed closely by Out of Africa.  But really, there are so many good ones to choose from).  Our Souls at Night is about second chances, about relationships, and about being older.  The movie made me feel better about moving through my life.