Yarn Along: 1930s Inspired Sweater and Anne Hollander

Linking with Ginny for Yarn Along!

I'm nearly finished the Mallard 1930s inspired sweater!  I know it doesn't look like much here, but I think the collar is what will finish it properly.  The pattern is for a basic turtleneck, but I'm modifying it to be an asymmetrical fold-over split collar.  I can't find an exact extant example, but it is definitely in the spirit of the 1930s.

1919 beach photo

I'm finding my style interests have shifted a bit earlier these last few months--I'm really inspired by the Great War era (1915-1921 or so), as well as the early to mid-1930s.  I suppose I like the more relaxed silhouette of the Great War, and the longer skirt lengths.  I find my hair is easier to style for the late 1910s and early 1930s at its current length and state.  I also like the softer shoulders and higher waist line of the 1930s, plus the interesting neckline details, asymmetric collars, and button details.  The silhouette of the 1930s is closer to my actual silhouette at the moment, as I've lost a lot of waist definition these last months, and am now closer to a rectangle than an inverted triangle.  Looking at the patterns of the 1930s, one might think that 30s fashions are for the very slim only, but I think it is more about the shape of the body under the clothing (which would have been supported and shaped by major foundation garments in any case)  The early 1930s were mostly a straight up and down silhouette, whereas the late 1930s and early 1940s returned to a more hourglass silhouette with lots of waist and shoulder definition.  The patterns of the early 1920s and 1930s are actually drafted for slightly different "ideal" measurements than those of the late 1930s and early 1940s.  (There is a whole essay I could write on pattern sizing and ready-to-wear sizing, and I'm planning to, but I need to start sleeping more before I start writing serious prose)

1919 studio portrait, winter ensembles

After doing a lot of image research on the 1930s, I realized that my Frankenpattern is actually quite close to a number of early 1930s house dresses (which saves me a bit of time and trouble!)  My idea book is filled with late 1910s/early 1930s sewing plans, and my next knitting project is a 1919 pullover sweater.  I have an early 1930s style Hooverette cut out and ready for sewing (I just need to draft a collar and sleeve cuffs)  As nothing I made this past fall and early winter currently fits me well, I'm trying to style some of my eshakti knit dresses and the 1917 coat dress in period ways.  I'll show a few of my (admittedly amateur) efforts in this direction tomorrow.

My book is Seeing Through Clothes by Anne Hollander--I'm about three quarters through it, and it is excellent.  She talks about the intersection of art, photography, and what is considered normative in dress and appearance.  She has so many wonderful observations about how norms for the female and male forms have changed over time, and how art not only reflects and influences those changes, but also how nude art reflects the clothing norms of the day.  Given how visual and image-driven our own society has become, I'm fascinated.  I'll probably devote a Talking Tuesday post (or two!) to some of her more provocative passages.