Legacy Stash

My husband's seamstress aunt died a few years ago, leaving behind a fair stash of fabric and notions.  (Funny story: the first time she met me, my husband and I had been dating only a few months and she immediately proclaimed that she would make my wedding dress.  It was one of those classic My Big Fat Greek Wedding moments.  In the end, however, my mother made my dress).

Anyway, when we visited one of the cousins last summer, she asked me to look through the stash and take what I wanted. A lot of it was fibers or colors that I knew I'd never use, but there was a generous yard of wool Glen plaid that I took, along with some black velvet that had been sewn into the beginnings of a teeny tiny pencil skirt. 

I'm not sure what I'll use the velvet for, but I decided to make up the Glen plaid into a simple skirt (simple being my one-trick pony).  Given that the limited yardage+plaid, it seemed best to limit seam lines for optimum pattern matching.

I used my trusty Anne Adams 9481 and left off all the waist darts and band, as well as adding back in the center back seam allowance that I had taken out the last time I graded it down.  The pockets are done in a two-part construction that I thought would look bulky in this fabric, so I took a page from the Free Range slacks and used just the back piece and stitched it to the skirt.  I hand stitched some linen bias on the pocket edge to finish it.  In retrospect, I should have extended the top edge of the pocket at least as deep as the facing, but live and learn.  

There was a bit of bemberg left from my wool skirt so I lined this one.  I faced the waistband with bemberg using the Free Range Slacks facing pattern piece.  

The elastic waistband construction uses that of the Elemental skirt.  

It looked weird to top stitch the facing, so I hand stitched it as well as the hem.  I need to steam the front again a few more times, as the fold lines have proved tricky to get out, but hopefully I'll get there in the end.

The top is another 1 yard Coco top with extended cuffs in Marsala cotton jersey knit.  I added an inch of length to the body, just to see if I'd like that better, and I'm not sure--Goldilocks again. 

It feels like it might be on the edge of hitting in an unflattering spot and perhaps my original length would have been better.  Maybe I should split the difference?  I dunno.  I realized that I need to be making a forward shoulder adjustment on tops and dresses, so will try that on future makes for a better fit.

And in the land of Penelope, I finished this sweater after knitting the yoke three times (I know, I know...) but...the sleeves fit like sausage casings and came out much too long.  I knew it was a mistake not to go up a needle size, so I'm reknitting both sleeves.  The neckline is also a bit higher and tighter than I prefer, so I'm also going to tink that back and decrease fewer stitches.  I've pretty much given up hopes of wearing it this season.  Oh well. 

This Present Moment

It's hard to know what to write these days.  I'm deeply grieved by the war (for many different reasons) and find I cannot write about it now, if ever.  The situation is highly complex and I dislike the way that the Narrative About What Is Happening is being twisted to suit simple explanations.  I feel my general lack of agency keenly.

It does feel frivolous to share my sewing and knitting in the present moment, but I like to have a record of it here to refer back to later.  (Sometimes I wonder why I do, since it really serves no one but myself, and I weary of adding my poor voice to the chattering classes, but I find I do not want to quit this space just yet).

A couple of weeks ago, I decided to make another Toaster sweater out of some cotton-tencel French terry from Telio. The price per yard was more than I usually spend, but the Kaufman French terry line has a fair amount of spandex in it, and I didn't think I'd like it in a Toaster sweater.  

I made the same size 10 as before, but shortened the body so I could put the bottom band on it.  The arm-to-hem length is about 11", which I think is a good length.  I'm starting to feel like Goldilocks with my sweater lengths, as I can't quite figure out what I like best.  10.5" is right at my waist, but can pull up the back, and 12" is bordering on frump-town, so 11" feels like a happy medium.  

And on that note, I recently reknit the bottom of my Cypress sweater to add some short rows to the back hem and slightly lengthen the body as well as make it long-sleeved.  Now I'm all: Add All The Short Rows! to my previous knits.

But I digress.  This Toaster is a nice weight, and more sweatshirt-like than my first one, but I've worn it several times since I made it.  It feels like a good transition piece on its own and a decently warm piece with a long-sleeve layer underneath.  

The color is more complex than it photographed--it has an undertone of berry in it that gives the rust a great rich color in person.  Imagine dipping rust in red wine and that will get you close.  I really like it. 

 

The silhouette is perhaps a bit more casual than my usual semi-fitted, but my clothes are all over the place right now with my body shape in flux.  

Talking Tuesday: Theotokos Covers the World

I don't have anything profound to say today, but I do want to share an icon by Ivanka Demchuk.  She is an Eastern Rite Catholic artist in Ukraine, and her work is startlingly beautiful and profound.  Her etsy shop has many different and wonderful prints of her work, and while the post office in her part of the country is closed, she has said she will ship out as soon as possible.

I find her iconography incredibly moving.  I can't stop thinking about the image above in particular, as it seems to me that the Theotokos is absorbing all the chaos of the world below.  In traditional iconography, the first layer of the icon is done in what is called "roskrysh" or chaos.  The egg tempera pigment is left deliberately rustic and mottled, so that when it is applied, there is a grainy character to it, similar to the pigmentation in the circle around the Theotokos.  As the various layers of light are applied on top of that, the roskrysh is absorbed into the higher lights, but still shows through a bit, symbolizing the chaos that underlies all creation.  

Ms. Demchuk's Transfiguration and Appearance of Christ are similarly profound.

On Being Human

Christ in Gethsemane, Vasily Perov

It is difficult to know how to write about what is happening in Ukraine. I've heard many people who would struggle find Ukraine on a map suddenly have a hard and fast opinion about what is happening there and what it is about. I don't intend to add my voice to the fray, and am praying that cooler heads prevail in Washington and that the war ends soon.

That said, I can choose to create a spirit of peace within myself.  St. Seraphim of Sarov famously said: "Acquire a spirit of peace and thousands around you will be saved."  

It is fitting, perhaps, that all this narrative dissonance comes as Lent begins for the Western Church on Wednesday. (We Orthodox still have a week of Cheesefare, but there is still the strong feeling that Lent is upon us).  The temptation toward evil is always present, but the pressure always increases during these times that are set aside to focus especially hard on our spiritual path.

What I want to say is let's all be human.  Remember that there are real people, living real lives who are affected by it all, no matter which side of the border they are on.  That words have power to tear down and build up.  That hatred does no good in the world.  That the world is not black and white.  That lots of people are scared about the future, and that fear comes out in strange ways sometimes.  Kindness is free, and can be given at any time, in any situation.  People are usually fighting tremendous battles that they do not show to the world.  

I think the best thing I can say about it is to repost Metropolitan Hilarion's letter to the diocese from this past weekend: 

Dear in the Lord Brothers & Sisters!

On the threshold of Great Lent, this salvific time of augmented prayer and self-correction, and in connection with events unfolding in the Ukrainian land, I turn to all with a heartfelt plea: refraining from excesses in watching television, following newspapers and the internet, and closing the doors of our hearts to the passions ignited by mass media, to augment our fervent prayers for peace throughout the world, for overcoming enmity and discord, for help for the suffering, for the repose of those who have departed into life eternal and the consolation of their friends and relatives, so that we all first and foremost remain humane and Orthodox Christians in these difficult times.

The approaching Great Lent is the journey to Christ’s Pascha. This path leads us from a state of idleness, impatience, vanity, and constant anxiety to spiritual peace, integrity, humility, and love. These holy traits do not arise within us without effort, but through adhering to the other world in our churches – the world of light, joy, hope, and kindness. Without participating in the divine services of Great Lent, which create a special atmosphere in our homes and in our lives, attaining such a spiritual state is very difficult, it may even be impossible. Striving toward God, establishing peace within our hearts and participating in the sacramental life of the Church of Christ, wherein lies our personal relationship with God, we reduce the level of evil in this world, we inspire others toward labors and spiritual feats of the Gospel, we enhance peace and brotherly relationships, and do not succumb to the temptations of various discords and divisions.

Therefore, I urge everyone to take advantage of every opportunity offered by the Church to preserve peace and goodness in our hearts, to spend this grace-filled time unto our salvation, so that we can all together meet and spend the radiant Paschal night in unity of spirit and brotherly love, in the renewal of all of our strengths and the spiritual joy in the Resurrected Christ and the victory of good over evil! Amen.

+HILARION
Metropolitan of Eastern America & New York
First Hierarch of the Russian Church Abroad

Life in Squares

Went to visit my parents this past weekend.  It was a bit hard to manage the kids' emotions from afar, but we got through it.  It was a great visit, and I'm so glad I got to go. My dad looks better than he did in November; we even took a short walk on Monday afternoon!  

I've spent the rest of this week trying to catch up and manage my anemia-fatigue.  We are sliding inexorably toward Lent, and I'm trying to get ready.  After two bouts of covid, (including long-covid symptoms), the edges of my capacity are always finite and visible.  

Toaster Sweater #1 & Simple Skirts

Peggy at Sew House 7 recently ran a sale on her popular Toaster sweater pattern to celebrate a regrade and I couldn't resist getting a pdf copy.  I have had such success with her patterns this past year, and I don't knit as fast as would be ideal for wardrobe purposes.  She also restocked her lovely wool-cotton jersey and since I've been wearing my wool-cotton jersey Coco on repeat this winter, I bought another yard and a half, hoping to squeak out a Toaster sweater version.

Nothing much to report on this.  I dithered a bit on the sizing, as I didn't want it too fitted, but I didn't want it sloppy either.  My more fitted clothing doesn't fit quite right at the moment.  

I've gained a fair bit of weight around my middle in the past six weeks (much to my dismay and consternation, as I've not changed anything...I'm working to get to the bottom of it, as well as making some lifestyle changes, but still.  It is frustrating.  I'm not someone who subscribes to the idea that the only good bodies are small bodies, but I feel better in my body when I am at the weight I've been maintaining since around 2015.  So I'm hoping this is a temporary glitch and not the new normal).  I did have a bit of an argument with myself about the basic idiocy of wearing elastic waistbands all the time because they don't constrict me during the day and therefore allowed me to gain weight by not providing adequate feedback before I slapped myself upside the head and told the eating-disordered part of my brain to shut up and go home.  

Anyway, I ended up going with a 10, on the idea that my size 10 Remy was a bit roomy for a summery blouse, but the 8 was more fitted to my preference.  In the wool-cotton jersey, that has very little stretch for a knit, I worried that an 8 would be too tight.  The 10 was exactly the right call, as I love the way this one fits.  I've been wanting something with a high (but not tight) neckline lately, as I can't stand anything tight around my neck (hot flashes!) but I'm cold because of being anemic.  It's a bizarre combination.

I did end up taking off the bottom band as it made the top entirely too long to be flattering on me, and I knew shortening the body to accomodate the band would throw off the proportions.  I did a baby hem of just under 3/8" and called it good.  (Which probably gives you a fair idea of how short-waisted I really am).  Because I was working with a yardage that was just shy of the recommendation, I cut the neck piece on the cross grain and had to piece a tiny bit of the inside of the bottom band but it looks fine and gets over my head okay.  As it happens, since I took off the bottom band anyway, I probably could have made it cutting the neck on the grain, but it doesn't matter.  

The skirt is a super simple knit skirt that I cut using the M7353 as my guide.  The fabric is a thicker quilted cotton knit I found at KnitFabric.com.  I skipped the pockets and used the waistband facing from the Free Range Slacks.  The stitching at the bottom of the facing is a little more visible than I thought it would be, but I could go back and hand stitch it if need be.  I did the hem by hand for that reason.  Since I had skipped the pockets, I also sewed a little fabric loop on the inside of the front facing so I could hook my pedometer to it. 

And because I am making really simple stuff lately, I also made a Free Range skirt hack out of chambray flannel last month and never showed it, so ta-da (shown with the same Toaster sweater):

No construction notes except that I used rayon seam tape on the pocket edges instead of fabric facing to reduce bulk on that seam.  I've worn the skirt quite a bit since I made it.

The keen-eyed amongst you will notice the brace on my left arm. I fell in October and it kept hurting enough to wake me up at night, so I finally got it looked at and I have traumatic tennis elbow. There's a longer medical term for it, but that's the short version. I have to wear the brace as much as possible for the next six weeks and had a cortisone shot, both of which have helped a lot.

The shortest month

I realize I've been a bit AWOL over here.  January is so busy for us, and I spend most of February just trying to catch up.  Throw in some vitamin and mineral deficiencies that are hugely messing with my energy levels and it's slow days mostly.  I'm knitting, rewatching Discovery of Witches for the nth time (and re-reading the series....so.good), and generally trying to keep my head on straight.

Last week I did a special presentation on Stalin and the gulags to the 4th graders at my kids' school.  It was fun and nerve-wracking at the same time because getting the information down to their level was such a challenge.  Suffice to say I was massively over-prepared for 9 year olds, but that's okay.  I might be asked back to give a more advanced version of the talk to the 12th graders next year, and I'm looking forward to diving deep for that!

I made another plain vanilla flannel skirt last month (no pics yet), and have fabric for another heavy wool one, but lack motivation to sew right now.  So back to my needles it is!

Over and out.