The Historical Sew Monthly

I discovered recently that vintage sewing is a gateway drug to historical costuming.  Earlier this year, I joined a Facebook group for a 1910s-themed sew-a-long, and although I didn't end up making the suit, I did learn a ton about the fashion of the period as well as priming the pump for the Out of Africa 1917 Coat Dress.  Watching Peaky Blinders this fall has been so interesting to me from a costuming perspective (the show is really a stunning production all around) and I've gotten lots of inspiration from Grace's outfits in particular.  I've been reading vintage sewing blogs for over a year, and several of them also do historic costuming, so it has been fun to read about other's adventures in this direction.  I guess it was bound to spill over into my own sewing sooner or later!  The historian in me is just loving it.  Research!  Sewing!  More research!  Knitting!  Rinse, repeat.

I've spent all fall meticulously examining the details of the costumes on Outlander (as well as pretty much any other period show I watch!) and avidly following Terry Dresbach's blog (she is the head costumer for the show, as well as Ron D. Moore's wife).  The show's costumes cover my favorite periods at the same time: the 1930s/1940s and the 18th century.  I started researching basic garments, plotting to recreate one of the outfits that Claire wears in several episodes, and then I stumbled across a few 18th century costuming groups.

Suddenly I found myself well and truly hooked on historic fashion details and construction.  I hand-stitched large portions of the Coat Dress as a result of some of that fascination, and bought some patterns and fabric to make the outfits I saw in my head.  I started researching how to make stays, of all things!  (I have a whopper of a post cooking along on foundation garments)  Earlier this month, I made an 18th century petticoat skirt (the construction is so clever!--pics to come) and have plans for a complete outfit that includes it.

thedreamstress.com

This year I've decided to join the ranks of those who participate in the Historical Sew Monthly.  The last few years it has been a fortnightly historic/costuming sewing challenge but for 2015, it will be monthly, which I think gives me a shot of participating at least a few times.  So I'm throwing my hat into the ring, so to speak.  I know I won't be able to do every challenge, in part because my time is very often not my own, and in part because I really don't have the space, skills, or resources to sew a historical costume or accessory every month.  My goal is to produce items that I can use in modern life that are historic in some way.  Plus, the guideline dates are up to 1945, so that fits my vintage sewing just fine.

That said, here are the challenges and my initial thoughts on them:

• January – Foundations: make something that is the foundation of a period outfit.  I plan to make an 18th century shift or chemise.  I have handkerchief linen that was purpose-bought for this, and a JP Ryan pattern I'm going to use.  I probably will sew it on machine, however, given my time constraints.
• February – Colour Challenge Blue: Make an item that features blue, in any shade from azure to zaffre. I've got a flannel just-au-corps/jacket bodice in the works in a lovely shade of mallard blue.  I've got it cut out and a few seams (machine) sewn, but I'm a bit intimidated by the boning, so I keep putting off doing it.  
• March – Stashbusting: Make something using only fabric, patterns, trims & notions that you already have in stash.  I have several dress-lengths of printed cotton and would like to make a 1930s-style casual dress out of one of them.  I also have some printed cotton and vintage buttons for a blouse that I didn't make last summer.  I'm also planning to participate in Sew for Victory in the spring, so I'm sure at least one of these will overlap with that challenge.
• April – War & Peace: the extremes of conflict and long periods of peacetime both influence what people wear.  Make something that shows the effects of war, or of extended peace.  I'm not really sure about this one; I'll have to give it some more thought.  Probably something small like a 1930s hat because of Lent/Pascha.
• May – Practicality:  Fancy party frocks are all very well, but everyone,even princesses, sometimes needs a practical garment that you can DO things in.  Create the jeans-and-T-Shirt-get-the-house-clean-and-garden-sorted outfit of your chosen period. This is my sewing motto!  Probably a 1940s Swirl dress for summer using my watermelon fabric.
• June – Out of Your Comfort Zone: Create a garment from a time period you haven’t done before, or that uses a new skill or technique that you’ve never tried before.  I'd really like to get to the Armistice blouse, because it scares me with all the detailing, but I already know that June will be nuts, so probably not going to get to this one.
• July – Accessorize: The final touch of the right accessory creates the perfect period look.  Bring an outfit together by creating an accessory to go with your historical wardrobe. I'm thinking about a fichu using some printed cotton from my stash.
• August – Heirlooms & Heritage: Re-create a garment one of your ancestors wore or would have worn, or use an heirloom sewing supply to create a new heirloom to pass down to the next generations. This will have to be hand sewn or something small because I usually can't sew in the August heat.  
• September – Colour Challenge Brown: it’s not the most exciting colour by modern standards, but brown has been one of the most common, and popular, colours throughout history. Make something brown. Probably going to knit this one, possibly a pair of brown gauntlets and a beret.  I have some lovely yarn that will work well for it.
• October – Sewing Secrets: Hide something in your sewing, whether it is an almost invisible mend, a secret pocket, a false fastening or front, or a concealed message (such as a political or moral allegiance). I'm considering a set of embroidered pockets for the petticoat skirt.
• November – Silver Screen: Be inspired by period fashions as shown onscreen (film or TV), and recreate your favourite historical costume as a historically accurate period piece.  I'm waiting to see the second half of Outlander season one before I make plans for this challenge!  I'm also quite inspired by the costuming on Peaky Blinders, so I might give one of Grace's outfits a go.
• December – Re-Do:  It’s the last challenge of the year, so let’s keep things simple by re-doing any of the previous 11 challenges.

And, we're off!  Wish me luck.