Another Rifle and Co. rayon dress! I wrote on Monday that this dress was a hot mess to start with. I actually made this dress in February in anticipation of my spring rotation. My first mistake was trying to make an elastic waistband ala The Staple Dress. I really like the shape of that dress, and the pattern is actually very similar to the Simplicity 1080 I use for these dresses.
I realize that the Staple Dress pattern calls for elastic shirring instead of an elastic waist band, but I figured the end effect would be similar and an elastic waist band is a lot easier to unpick than shirring. So I went for it. And regretted it. The dress looked awful--the top looked two or three sizes too big, the elastic in the middle added visual weight to my midsection, and the whole thing just hung weirdly on me.
I was really disappointed, as this fabric had been a birthday present from my husband last summer, and I was really excited to use it. I unpicked the elastic waist band and set in tucks in the front which helped considerably. I did retrofit them, so the tucks are a bit deeper than how they are on the pattern, but I think it works.
The sleeves are still a bit big on me (I don't really know why--I cut this exactly the same as I always do--maybe the fabric shifted a bit during cutting), but taking the front in and redoing the back elastic helped the fit on the top a lot. This dress also came out slightly longer than my other dresses off the same pattern, so I think the fabric must have shifted a bit during chalking/cutting.
The next problem was the pocket. I had originally put a kangaroo pocket on the dress, but it just hung strangely and looked bad. I kept looking at this dress in my closet and not wanting to wear it because the pocket looked so bad. Well, this rayon was expensive enough that I wanted to salvage the dress! (Plus I really like the print) After the pocket success of my Painted Roses rayon, I knew I had to switch out the pocket for the patch pockets, so I did that last Friday morning and now I'm super happy with this dress! (I made another rayon dress at the same time as this one and I will have to do the same thing to that dress as well)
I don't remember right now, but I think I cut the back piece in between my old back piece and the front piece--so probably 5/8" off both side seams. I had a couple of dresses that I cut this way before I decided to just cut the back and front the same width (which is just right).
I again layered a navy blue long sleeve shirt underneath for warmth and added a heavy weight cotton sweater and cotton-wool cowl over top. The combination is a nice one for warmth and comfort. It was particularly damp and chilly the day I wore this dress--I got rained on as I was finishing up taking photos!
The print is a little bolder than what I usually go for, but I like it. All in all, a success! I'm glad I stuck with the fitting and design changes, because I think it is a great addition to my closet.
Just the facts:
Birch Floral dress: Rifle and Co. for Cotton+Steel rayon challis fabric (from the Les Fleurs line); Simplicity 1080 (redrafted), elastic, bias binding
Undershirt: Loft via ThredUp
Sweater: LLBean (from last spring)
Cowl: me-made from Main Street Reserve cotton-wool yarn
Earrings: etsy
Tights: Foot Traffic Signature Cotton Tights in Navy via Sock Dreams
Boots: BOC Faye via Macy's (from two autumns ago)


I have been eyeing this fabric for so long--but rayon intimidates me. I'll take the plunge soon. It can't be harder than this blasted charmeuse I am wrangling right now.
ReplyDeleteYou can do it!! Rayon challis isn't that bad if you know how to handle it (charmeuse scares me--rayon should be a breeze to you after that!!!) The key for me is to use a stretch needle on my machine, and to prewash and dry the fabric before hand. It behaves much better. I also find higher quality challis is easier to work with than the cheaper stuff. Just try to keep the fabric as still as possible when cutting and you should be okay--I try to balance the fabric ends on something so they don't hang off onto the floor, and use a LOT of pattern weights to keep everything stable and still.
DeleteGood luck, my friend!