~wiws~ Christmas dress

This dress was supposed to be my Christmas dress. 

{We celebrate on the Old Calendar, January 7}

Imagine my dismay when I put it on Christmas morning before liturgy, only to discover that I had sewn the back bodice to the front skirt.  *facepalm*  It didn't look too awful backward, but it felt really weird, and I knew I would be uncomfortable all day.  To add insult to injury, the Miss Marple Scarf I made to go with it was too short.  As in, it fit Ponchik rather well.  There was obviously no time to fix anything right then.

I decided to let Ponchik have the scarf and welcome, but I confess, I almost didn't want to fix the dress.  I knew it wouldn't take that long, but I was really disgusted with myself.  In my defense, the day I was sewing this dress, I had pulled a muscle in my rib cage and was in quite a lot of pain.  I couldn't sit, stand, or lay down without hurting a lot.  So I guess my mind wasn't really in the game.

I did finally get myself together last week and fixed it so I would have something to wear to church for the last of the 12 days of Christmas, also for the party we threw at our house this afternoon for the 12th Night.  (Technically it is tomorrow, but tomorrow is a fasting day, so we'll call it the Eve and say we're good)  We've just put the house back together after about 40 guests, including about 17 children!!  A good time was had by all, I think.

I have absolutely nothing to report about the construction--it was a straight up Frankendress, with a bit of length added to the bodice, which was just right.  Except now I can't remember exactly what I did.  I guess I'll have to measure the bodice pieces to see.  I'm also really loving my Ramona sweater now that I've fixed the sleeve cuffs.  It was quite cold today and I was totally warm and comfortable, especially at coffee hour after church, which is held in a largely unheated basement space in our church.  Yay merino wool!  We also got some unexpected snow--it was the perfect amount for a party day--enough to dust and look pretty, but not enough to stick and make the roads dodgy.

Just the facts:

Berry Tinsel dress: Me-made, Cotton+Steel "Pomegranate" fabric, Frankenpattern

Ramona cardigan: me-made, fall 2015

Pinecone earrings: willfulmina's etsy shop

Tights: Foot Traffic Signature Cotton tights in Navy

Boots: Payless

Linking with FLAP for What I Wore Sunday!

STATurday: Six Months

Six months ago, I went to my first appointment with a nutritionist who seemed like she could sort my dietary issues (which are numerous).  She was game to try, in any case.  I knew I needed to lose weight, get on top of my nutrition, and generally start making some changes.

I had a rocky start.

But at least it was a start.  A week later, I joined the gym and officially started on this crazy weight loss journey.  I had some modest success to start, and got into a good routine of working out, counting calories, and generally feeling good about the direction things were going.

Then, at the end of August, I had a routine endoscopy.  I have chronic dysphagia due to EoE, and it had gotten worse during the preceding months.  I hoped they would dilate my esophagus, which has helped a lot in the past.  That procedure sent me into a dark health tunnel that I think I'm only beginning to see daylight on.  Sometime in September, I moved to a soft thick diet that consisted primarily of Chex, cottage cheese, lite Swiss cheese slices, protein smoothies, Cream of Wheat, and the occasional mashed potato.  And dark chocolate, because it melts on the way down.  I had to watch my calorie intake very closely because it was easy to go over my daily limit on such foods.

Sometime in early November, I decided I had to stop working out because my nutritional profile was so poor and my fatigue so high.  My hair has been falling out again, and my skin and nails are terrible.  I still walk the boys to school most days, so I am getting some movement into my day, but I am no longer burning 1000 calories before 9:00 a.m. as before.

Since August, I've had several ER visits for food and medicine stuck in my throat, have aspirated a few pills, had some food impactions that I dealt with at home, a perforation scare, and had three more endoscopies, two with dilation.  A normal esophagus is 18 mm in diameter.  When we started the process of dilating it, in November, I was less than 8.  I'm now up to 15 mm, and am starting to eat a wider variety of foods again, but it has been a rocky road.

Eating and taking my daily medicines is a stressful experience for me. I'm now able to eat ground beef, and have had some modest successes with a few other foods, but I still have a lot of days where I can't face food getting stuck in my throat, so I go with what is now familiar and easy.  I also have a lot of days where food actually does still get stuck, so there's that.  And that is setting aside the allergy and digestive issues I have on top of all of this.  Most days, I just want to chuck it all out the window.

Needless to say, it has been a rough few months.  Today I went back to the gym.  It was the first day I felt I could manage it.  I decided to walk for two miles at 3.5 mph with 4.0 elevation, and stop at the end.  No pushing on, no seeing if I could run a few laps, just walking.  It was enough.  I had a 515 calorie burn, and I felt good after working out, but not destroyed for the rest of the day.  I'm quite tired today anyway, after a week of Birdie screaming/fussing every hour or two all night long, so I didn't want to push it.  We also just got word that my husband will argue another case before the Supreme Court this spring, so I know I have to pace myself for the next few months.

On to stats for today.  As of today, I'm down a total of 23 pounds, and 17.7 inches.  I'm wearing a medium on top and a large on the bottom in most brands now, and am ordering a whole size down at eShakti.  I've had to grade down my slopers and am sewing my Frankendress about a size smaller.  Some vintage pieces I thought would never fit again fit quite well now, and I've shrunk out of almost everything I made last year.  I still have about 12 pounds to my personal goal weight, but I'm within 5 pounds of the weight loss target that the trainer at the gym gave me in July.  I don't know how often I'll be getting to the gym, but I will keep moving as much as I can, staying active in my daily life, counting calories, and trying to improve my nutritional profile.

In short: I intend to keep on keeping on.

On the Eighth Day: Dottie Angel!!

On the Eighth Day of Christmas, my true love gave to me...

A DOTTIE ANGEL FROCK!!!!

Meet my new dress pattern: Simplicity 1080 (aka, The Dottie Angel Frock).  To say I'm excited about this dress would be a slight understatement.  I started reading Dottie Angel's blog sometime last spring, just as she was winding it down to pursue other things.  I love her whimsical writing style, and her sartorial efforts really grabbed my attention.  

I originally found Tiff through etsy, when I stumbled across her Dottie Angel frocks (in her shop of the same name).  I saved the listing, intending to purchase one at some point, but then she stopped making them to sell!  I was disappointed.  I had started reading her blog in the meantime, and at some point last year, she announced that Simplicity was going to release a pattern version of her dresses!  I stalked the Simplicity website for a few months in the late spring and summer, but the release was a delayed a bit, and then I got sidetracked by other things.

Fast forward to December, when I was browsing at Fabric Depot, and stumbled across the very pattern!  I snapped it up quick, along with some fun novelty cotton in a tomato pincushion print (stay tuned!)

I decided to make a wearable muslin to start, and used this Flea Market Fancy fabric from Hart's Fabric as a starter project.  It was on sale, and I really liked the colorway.  I thought it would be a nice neutral print dress to add to my winter rotation.

I intended to make the dress exactly according to the pattern instructions, but ended up making some changes straight out of the envelope, and also as I went along.  I intend to make further changes on the next iteration (already cut out!)  My changes were as follows:

1) I raised the back neckline by 2" as I could tell it was going to be too low for my taste.  I'm raising it another 1/2" on the next one.

2) I extended the kimono sleeve caps out because I like more upper arm coverage.  I used my Portrait blouse pattern as a guide.  I don't particularly like how they come together at the side seam, so my next version is going to be cut-on sleeves, using my Frankenpattern bodice block as a guide.

3) I added 2" to the dress length.  I'm going to take 1/2" off that for the next one.

4) I dropped the bust tucks down about 1 1/2" as I could tell they were going to end up too high.(Nursing four babies doesn't exactly make for perky...ah...assets!)

5) I removed the ties at the bust tucks because they looked kind of weird on me.  I added a strip of elastic across the mid-back to cinch it in instead (and I know Tiff has done this a lot as well); my next version will have elastic instead of the tucks in the front as well, just to try something different.

6) I cut a medium for the back and a small for the front.  I wanted to be sure it would fit in the shoulders, so I cut according to the finished bust measurements. I do have a bit more in my backside, so I wanted a little extra room in the back.  I measured the pattern pieces before I cut to make sure it would come out right and it did!

7) The pattern has you make French seams for the side seams, and I think I would skip this step next time.  I also will skip the bias tape finishing on the shoulder seams, as I think it is unnecessary and I don't care for the visible seams at the shoulder lines.  I could see doing a French seam at the shoulders, however.  I also don't love that the seam allowances on the dress are different at almost every seam, and the instructions for the French seams don't give a seam allowance for the second seam at all!  I had to guess and made them 3/8", as with the shoulders.  The instructions do make for nicely finished insides, but adds a lot of time and hassle that I don't think is necessary.  I've been pinking the seams on my clothes for the last two years and haven't had a problem yet.  

I'm pretty happy with this iteration, and have worn it twice already!  I sort of burned out on my Frankenpattern sometime this fall, but haven't been successful in finding a replacement for it.  I've also been moving my Frankenpattern toward this basic silhouette for the past year.  What I really wanted, however, was something without a waist seam.  I like a semi-fitted look, but I'm realizing lately that I don't love having a lot of feedback from my clothing around my middle.  This dress silhouette just ticks a lot of sartorial boxes for me, and has the added bonus of looking good with a longer line cardigan.  I'm very short waisted, so it has been hard for me to find the right length of cardigan to wear with my Frankenpattern dresses--anything longer than waist-length looks a tad frumpy on my figure.  This dress seems to work with either at-waist cardigans or more long-line.  

I pulled out my green Ramona cardigan since it coordinated so well.  I ended up reknitting the ribbing on the sleeve cuffs this week because the original ribbing was too loose and wide (I hadn't sized down on the needles when I made it, and always regretted not doing so).  The fix was pretty fast and easy, and I'm MUCH happier with the sweater now.  

The pocket was modestly confusing at first, and added about an extra hour to the construction time, because I messed it up twice, but now that I've done it, I'll do it better/faster next time.  Patch pockets are not my favorite, but I do like the little tuck on these.  I also plan to move these 1/2" toward the side seam on the next one, as I think they are just slightly too close to the center of the dress for ease of use.

I think this dress will be pretty fabulous in the fall as well.  I wore it to the annual church Christmas party on Sunday afternoon and I was so comfortable all day!  I could stand an extra layer underneath it today, but that is easily fixed.

Let the Dottie Angel Frock parade begin!!

Just the facts:

Flea Market dress: me-made, Simplicity 1080, Flea Market Fancy fabric from Denyse Schimdt, bias tape, elastic

Ramona cardigan: me-made, Amherst worsted yarn in Jungle

Earrings: Etsy

Necklace: inherited from my gram

Tights: Foot Traffic Signature Cotton Tights in Chocolate

Boots: Payless

ayless

Yarn Along and a Geo Flannel Skirt

Happy 12 Days of Christmas!  We still have a week to go celebrating the birth of Christ, and a lot of treats to get through!  My mom sent her annual fudge, friends from church gave us lots of yummy things to eat; our fridge and hearts are full.

On to today's makes!  I actually finished this skirt a few weeks ago (I think before the kids had their winter break even!) but I wanted to make a cowl to go with it, and it took me until now to finish it.  

But first the skirt!  It is double napped flannel from Robert Kaufman, and I admit that I bought it primarily because I just loved Tasha's outfit.  I loved it last winter when she first posted it, but kind of chickened out about the fabric for myself, but I just couldn't get it out of my head, so when several of my winter projects tanked, I decided to take the plunge and inject some fun into my winter rotation.  

I went with my vintage Anne Adams straight skirt pattern because full skirts are just not my jam right now.  I'm pretty happy with the fitting changes I made to this pattern over the fall, and it is a pretty quick and easy make.

I really like it!  It is warm and soft, and was so nice to sew with.  I went on ebay and hunted down this navy blue cotton pullover (a size medium--woot!), although I have a gray wool pullover that will also work.  I think I have a teal top that will coordinate as well.  A win for the wardrobe!

I pretty much set everything else creative aside to work on this cowl for the last two weeks.  I could have made it easier on myself and done it in garter stitch, but I was afraid I wouldn't like it as much.

I went with a modified waffle stitch because it is easy to memorize, easy to read, and knits up quickly while looking interesting.  I rather like the result, although I did get bored and frustrated a few times.  I had to frog back more than one set of repeats because I misread my knitting.  I measured a cowl I made for my husband way back in 2004 because I like the size of it, and went from there.

I cast on 50 stitches, and knit the pattern (2 waffle stitch repeats, and then one row that was offset, just for visual interest) until I finished two skeins of yarn.  It is slightly longer around than my husband's, but I'm okay with that. 

I do have one repeat in the very middle that is one row too many, but hopefully it doesn't stand out too much.  I put the cowl on with that row more to the side, so I think it isn't too obvious.

I still have a skein of yarn caked up, so I'm planning to make a quick pair of fingerless mitts with it.

The wool-alpaca blend is so soft and warm!

Back to the skirt: I do have a slight bit of wonk going on in the back; I had to add a second set of darts to fit the skirt to my waist, and I have some diagonal drag lines on one side, just to the right of the zip.  I think it is partly a function of the flannel being a bit sticky, and my slip is too big so there is a bit of bunching underneath.

I'm pretty pleased with the waistband effect--I managed to get the vertical lines perfectly lined up for one pattern repeat on the front side of the waistband.

As for reading, still plugging away at Rod Dreher's book.  I'm watching Nikita on Netflix (more on that later) and waiting for Person of Interest season five to start, although it looks like CBS isn't allowing free streaming of their current shows, so I might have to wait for summer to watch it on Netflix.

Just the facts:

Geo Flannel Skirt: me made, Anne Adams 9481, Robert Kaufman flannel from fabric.com, metal gray zip, dress bar/hook, snap, bias tape for hem

Nautica navy cotton pullover sweater: ebay

Cowl: me made, Stockbridge yarn from Valley Yarns, in Kiwi

Earrings: Ireland

Tights: Foot Traffic

Boots: Payless (last winter)

Linking with Ginny for Yarn Along!

Nine

Taken October 2008

Christ is Born! Glorify Him!

The Gospel According to Luke:

11th Century, By Byzantinischer Maler um 1020 [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

And it came to pass in those days, that there went out a decree from Caesar Augustus, that all the world should be taxed. 2 (And this taxing was first made when Cyrenius was governor of Syria.) 3 And all went to be taxed, every one into his own city. 4 And Joseph also went up from Galilee, out of the city of Nazareth, into Judaea, unto the city of David, which is called Bethlehem; (because he was of the house and lineage of David:) 5 To be taxed with Mary his espoused wife, being great with child. 6 And so it was, that, while they were there, the days were accomplished that she should be delivered. 7 And she brought forth her firstborn son, and wrapped him in swaddling clothes, and laid him in a manger; because there was no room for them in the inn.

8 And there were in the same country shepherds abiding in the field, keeping watch over their flock by night. 9 And, lo, the angel of the Lord came upon them, and the glory of the Lord shone round about them: and they were sore afraid. 10And the angel said unto them, Fear not: for, behold, I bring you good tidings of great joy, which shall be to all people. 11For unto you is born this day in the city of David a Saviour, which is Christ the Lord. 12 And this shall be a sign unto you; Ye shall find the babe wrapped in swaddling clothes, lying in a manger. 13 And suddenly there was with the angel a multitude of the heavenly host praising God, and saying,

14 Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good will toward men.

Luke 2:1-14

Talking Tuesday: Alan Jacobs and the Internet Commons

Alan Jacobs weighs in on the role of technology in day-to-day life.  He's spent the last year easing away from smart phones, social media platforms, and generally going old-school in his intellectual life.  And enjoying the fruits, I think.  

Writes Jacobs: 

"But often when I go out I don’t bring my backpack. I head for the coffee shop with my dumb phone, my notebook, and a pen. I sip coffee and think and write. If my mind wanders and I wonder what’s in my RSS feed, I can’t check, so I have to go back to writing. Sometimes I bring a book too, and read it. If I get tired of it, I don’t have anything else to read, so I either keep going anyway or get the notebook back out. Or just sit there and drink my coffee and watch the unphotographed world go by."

~Alan Jacobs, My Year in Tech, Snakes and Ladders Blog, December 23, 2015

 I really appreciate his blog post (as well as the referring post).  He articulates a lot of what I'm often trying to say about technology and how our public and private discourse is negatively affected by it.  For all that I think social media or smart phones can be a useful tool to stay in touch with friends and family far and wide, I think it cannot be substitute for in-person fellowship, and we mustn't allow the noise of the internet to take over the quiet space in our heads.  We don't need to speak in public about everything.

  

Jacobs goes on to suggest a modus operandi for communication over the internet:

"I want to suggest some alternative ways of thinking about these matters, and related ones:

I don’t have to say something just because everyone around me is.

I don’t have to speak about things I know little or nothing about.

I don’t have to speak about issues that will be totally forgotten in a few weeks or months by the people who at this moment are most strenuously demanding a response.

I don’t have to spend my time in environments that press me to speak without knowledge.

If I can bring to an issue heat, but no light, it is probably best that I remain silent.

Private communication can be more valuable than public.

Delayed communication, made when people have had time to think and to calm their emotions, is almost always more valuable than immediate reaction.

Some conversations are be more meaningful and effective in living rooms, or at dinner tables, than in the middle of Main Street."

~Alan Jacobs, I'm Thinking it Over, American Conservative Blog, January 4, 2016

I'm an introvert, so taking the slow road, the quieter road is always going to be what I seek, but I think it is good for all of us to cultivate a rich inner life, to articulate parts of that inner life well, even if only to ourselves.  It is how we grow and move forward in the spiritual life.